EXFOLIANTS 23


The shift towards polyhydroxy acid exfoliants


David Raymond, Deborah McDonough - Bradford


The glow from exfoliation is undeniable. With so many exfoliants on the market, the question remains: are we using the correct exfoliant for our skin type? There are two kinds of exfoliation, physical


and chemical. The majority of individuals prefer physical exfoliants, as the term ‘chemical’ can sound daunting, especially regarding skin care. While physical exfoliants remain a popular choice, chemical exfoliants offer a more targeted and often gentler alternative, particularly for darker skin tones, sensitive skin, active acne, or rosacea. Our skin is constantly renewing itself, with cells


forming and replacing the older ones at an average rate of 28 days.1


Disruptors such as pollution,


stress, lack of sleep, and lifestyle choices often interrupt this cycle. Regular exfoliation is critical in maintaining the skin’s natural rejuvenation rate by helping loosen superficial cells, allowing new cells to surface faster. This consistent process not only smooths uneven texture and tightens pores but also fades acne scarring and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, resulting in a brighter complexion.


The skinimalism trend This movement toward gentler, more intentional skin care reflects a broader trend known as skinimalism, a philosophy that champions simplicity, minimal product use, and respect for the skin’s natural barrier. Rather than relying on aggressive routines or ingredient overload, skinimalism promotes fewer, multifunctional products designed to maintain skin health through balance and barrier support. The term ‘chemical’ often provokes caution


among consumers, especially in facial care. Chemical exfoliants use acids or enzymes to dissolve bonds between cells, while physical exfoliants involve manually scrubbing to remove granular substances in pores. Only 18% of body cleansing consumers seek


chemical exfoliation, and of this percentage of consumers, 49% who seek out chemical exfoliants are also seeking physical exfoliation.2


This data


underscores a clear hesitation among consumers, highlighting the need for education around the safety, efficacy, and skin benefits of chemical exfoliants. Many brands unintentionally reinforce


consumer fear by promoting their products with misleading terms rather than educating users on the true nature and safety of ingredients. It is essential to recognize that common marketing


www.personalcaremagazine.com


claims such as ‘chemical-free’ are scientifically inaccurate. In reality, everything from water to air


to a phone screen are made up of chemical substances. When brands use this term, they are looking to emphasise the absence of specific harmful compounds. Yet, this phrasing means the product is entirely


free of substances, which is logically impossible. Even popular ingredients for physical exfoliants like walnuts and clay are technically chemical compositions. A more accurate approach would be to highlight that products are free from harmful chemicals, while acknowledging that all ingredients are inherently chemical in nature.


Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) have historically dominated the chemical exfoliant category; however, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are emerging as the next-generation alternative for sensitive or barrier-compromised skin.3,4


PHAs such as gluconolactone, lactobionic


acid and galactose are sugar-derived molecules that provide gentle exfoliation while delivering strong humectant benefits. Gluconolactone, a mild exfoliant ideal for sensitive skin, helps renew the skin’s surface without irritation.5 Many PHAs also act as humectants, attracting


and retaining moisture by drawing water from air into the skin or hair. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are common examples of humectants; even honey, which contains gluconic acid, is naturally derived. Due to their larger molecular structure, PHAs also function as antioxidants and moisture- binding agents; they penetrate the skin at a slower rate and not as deeply, ultimately leaving the product on the skin for longer. PHAs further reinforce the incorrectness of chemical exfoliants, causing harm. The future is pointing towards even gentler


ingredients than previously used. PHAs perform well in hybrid formats, combining mechanical and chemical exfoliations in one. They are often described as ‘scrubs’ that loosen the connective tissues of the skin to exfoliate more deeply.


February 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72