32 MARINE INGREDIENTS


TABLE 1: A COMPARISON BETWEEN SCH ALGAETECH PORPHYRIDIUM, HYALURONIC ACID, BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-1 AND FUCOIDANS Parameter


Biological Hydration (in vivo)


Elasticity / Firmness TEWL


Occlusivity / Filming Antioxidant Anti-inflammatory


Seborregulation Microcirculation


Detox (proteasomes) Sustainability Multifunctionality


Country of origin / production


SCH Algaetech Porphyridium Marine red microalgae


(Porphyridium cruentum) +26.7% (28 days) +14.7% / +17%


-31.2% (28 days) Non-occlusive.


Permeable bioadhesive film, ‘breathable barrier’


-21.8 to 39.7% ROS (in vitro) -24.3 / -15.3% IL-8 (in vitro)


-29.2% sebum 14.90%


+114.5% / +71.5%


Closed marine farming, no GMOs or freshwater


Hydration + Elasticity +


TEWL + Sebum + Microcirculation + Antioxidant + Detox


Spain (EU)


interactions with skin proteins, enzymes and environmental stressors. In contrast, HA is a non-sulfated


glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of glucuronic acid and N-acetylglucosamine.1,2,3 Its physicochemical behaviour is dominated by its hygroscopic capacity and high water-retention ability. While HA effectively increases surface hydration, its linear, non-sulfated structure limits additional bioactivities such as antioxidant potential or enzyme modulation. Biosaccharide gum-1, typically produced by


bacterial fermentation, is also a linear, non- sulfated polysaccharide composed mainly of fucose, galactose and glucuronic acid. Although it provides pleasant sensory properties and contributes to hydration, its structural simplicity restricts longer-lasting protection or deeper biological interaction. Fucoidans extracted from brown algae possess partial sulfation, but their structure varies widely depending on species, geographic origin and extraction method.12


This variability


affects both chemical composition and biological performance. As fucoidans rely on wild harvesting, their sustainability profile is also less consistent compared with microalgal EPS cultivated under controlled photobioreactor conditions. These biochemical distinctions, particularly the


presence, absence or variability of sulfation, form the basis for the functional differences explored in the following sections.


Comparative functional mechanisms Hydration and film formation EPS from Porphyridium cruentum form a


PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE February 2026 Superficial hydration (China, Japan, Europe, USA...) Hyaluronic acid


Bacterial fermentation (Streptococcus, Bacillus)


+10-20%


(2-4 weeks, depends on MW) +5-10% (mild, low MW) -10-15%


Surface moisturizer, film-free


No Weak, variable


No ND No


Dependent on agricultural substrates


Biosaccharide Gum-1


Bacterial fermentation (plant substrates)


+34% in 7 days ND -10-12%


Light, non-occlusive surface film


Not documented Limited


No ND No


Fermentation, need sugars


Fast, superficial hydration


France


non-occlusive, bioadhesive film that adheres selectively to the stratum corneum. Their sulfated, three-dimensional matrix retains water efficiently while allowing normal skin respiration, delivering both immediate and prolonged hydration.6,10,11 This structure creates a flexible ‘second-skin’ effect that supports comfort, barrier stability and resistance to environmental stress. HA delivers hydration primarily through


surface-level water binding driven by its hygroscopic nature. Although effective in boosting short-term skin moisture, its film remains superficial and lacks cohesive adhesion. High- molecular-weight grades may become partially occlusive, and hydration typically declines as HA gradually loses bound water.1,2 Biosaccharide gum-1 provides rapid superficial


moisturization and pleasant sensoriality, yet its linear, non-sulfated structure limits extended water retention or formation of a robust film. Fucoidans show variable hydration capacity depending on species and extraction method. Some extracts bind water moderately well, while others form lighter films with lower cohesion, resulting in less consistent moisturization than microalgal EPS.


TEWL reduction & barrier function Microalgal EPS demonstrate strong capacity to reduce TEWL, forming a cohesive, bioadhesive matrix that stabilizes the upper epidermal layers. Their structural interactions with the stratum corneum enhance compactness and support the physiological barrier, leading to both immediate and sustained decreases in water loss. This effect is reinforced by improvements in corneocyte


Fucoidans (brown algae) Brown algae


(Fucus, Ascophyllum...) +15-20%


(28 days, variable)


Slight improvements, variable data Variable, no consensus


Superficial, breathable bioactive film


High (ROS scavenging) Clear evidence


( COX-2, TNF-a) Partial


Possible vascular improvement No


Wild collection, variable impact Hydration + Anti-inflammatory France, Norway, Asia


maturation and dermoepidermal junction cohesion. HA provides limited TEWL reduction, as


its primary function is hydration rather than structural reinforcement.1


Although HA increases


stratum corneum water content, it does not significantly influence epidermal cohesion or lipid organization, resulting in modest and short-lived TEWL improvements. Biosaccharide gum-1 demonstrates similarly


modest TEWL performance. Its contribution to comfort and initial moisturization does not translate into substantial barrier reinforcement, as its non-sulfated, linear structure does not support persistent film formation.


Elasticity and firmness EPS provide notable improvements in skin elasticity and firmness, outperforming low- molecular-weight HA in comparative evaluations. Their sulfated, multifunctional structure allows them to form a cohesive matrix while also inhibiting key ECM-degrading enzymes such as elastase and collagenase.11


This dual action helps


preserve dermal architecture and contributes to measurable gains in mechanical resilience. Low MW HA offers moderate elasticity benefits, mainly through hydration and temporary volumizing effects. However, its inability to modulate ECM-degrading enzymes or reinforce epidermal–dermal cohesion limits the depth and durability of its firming action.2 Biosaccharide gum-1 shows no significant


elasticity or firmness improvement, delivering primarily hydration and sensory comfort without interacting with structural proteins or enzymes.


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