24 EXFOLIANTS Overall, PHAs represent the next generation
of exfoliating ingredients, delivering measurable skin-smoothing and antioxidant benefits.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) An alternative to PHAs, AHAs primary function is to exfoliate dead skin cells and help retain moisture, making them suitable for dry and aging skin. AHAs are known to stimulate collagen production in the skin and reduce the overall look of fine lines and wrinkles.6 AHAs have been found to be effective in
the treatment for sun-damaged skin. However, higher forms of AHAs can cause skin irritation and increase sun sensitivity, making sunscreen use even more necessary for people using this type of exfoliation.
Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) On the other hand, BHAs work similarly to AHAs except they are lipid-soluble, while AHAs tend to be water-soluble.7
Skin Cell Turnover
New skin glowing, younger looking
Reduce the appearance of skin discolorations
BHAs’ chemical structure allows
for penetration into the skin through sebaceous follicles and are beneficial for those with oily skin and open pores. BHAs exfoliate deep in the skin’s surface
and help treat acne and clogged skin. BHAs in personal care products have been found to work best at a concentration of 1% to 2% due to their skin irritancy effect. BHAs like AHAs can lead to increased sensitivity if used too long or excessively. This is where PHAs come in to save the day for those with sensitive skin, or conditions including acne, rosacea or eczema.
Physical exfoliants Consumers tend not to believe what they cannot see. They tend to equate the sensation of manual scrubbing with efficacy, preferring the instant feedback that physical exfoliants provide. This ‘feel-it work’ effect leads to the widespread use of ingredients like charcoal, volcanic ash, and jojoba beans, which deliver a gratifying, yet often misleading, surface-smoothing sensation. While these ingredients are familiar and
perceived as natural and non-toxic, their recognizability fosters a false sense of security. The reliance on the physical sensation can mask the fact that effectiveness is not determined by texture alone, and that “natural” does not always equal safe or beneficial for all skin. Physical exfoliants remove cells by various
degrees of abrasion depending on the type. They provide even exfoliation and often give faster and immediate results. They are helpful when it comes to problem areas and spots on the skin such as hyperpigmentation on the face or neck which many physical ingredients can help fade. Physical scrubs often use coarse particles
that generate micro-tears and irritation, chemical exfoliants work without abrasive friction, targeting bonds holding together dead skin cells to encourage natural renewal. Even popular ingredients like crushed walnut
shells, which may be marketed as natural and beneficial, can inadvertently cause inflammation due to their jagged edges if not appropriately rounded.
PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE February 2026
Figure 1: As older cells shed and new ones rise, skin cell turnover supports a smoother, more radiant complexion
Chemical versus physical exfoliants Although many consumers gravitate toward physical exfoliants for the immediate tactile feedback they provide, findings display that chemical exfoliants offer a superior approach to skin health for certain types of skin, particularly those with sensitive skin, active acne, rosacea or skin prone to inflammation or redness.8 Chemical exfoliants provide a gentler
approach to skin health compared to their physical counterparts. Chemical exfoliants deliver smoother, more controlled results, allowing for healthier, more resilient skin. Unlike physical scrubs, these ingredients penetrate the skin to dissolve the sebum clogging pores. Ingredients such as salicylic acid are oil-
soluble, allowing them to reach deeper into pores, providing comedolytic, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial effects. This makes them preferable for sensitive or darker skin types prone to scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Many of the chemical exfoliants are identical
to mild acids found in nature. Gluconic acid is derived from sugars, lactic acid from milk, salicylic acid is found in many plants, and malic acid from mostly apples. Some chemical exfoliants harness the power of mandelic acid, a gentle AHA known for its larger molecular size. This slower absorption rate allows for effective
exfoliation with a lower risk of irritation, making it especially suitable for sensitive skin types. Similarly, salicylic acid, a BHA, penetrates deep into pores to exfoliate from within, regulate sebum production, and target blemishes, making it a powerful solution for acne-prone and oily skin. Many of the ‘synthetic’ ingredients are typically
made by fermentation so the manufacturing process mimics nature. By preserving the skin barrier and avoiding micro-tears, chemical exfoliants support a healthier, brighter complexion.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
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