MARINE INGREDIENTS 33
Anti-pollution, environmental protection & antioxidant activity Microalgal EPS provide comprehensive environmental protection through both physical and biochemical mechanisms. Their uniform film helps reduce adhesion of particulate matter and pollutants, while their sulfated structure confers strong intrinsic antioxidant activity, neutralizing ROS generated by UV/IR radiation, ozone and urban pollution.6,10,11,13
yields broad, consistent protection under real environmental stress. Fucoidans also exhibit moderate to high
ROS-scavenging capacity due to partial sulfation; however, their performance is highly variable, depending on species and extraction parameters.12 Their film-forming behaviour is generally weaker and more heterogeneous than that of EPS. HA lacks intrinsic antioxidant or anti-pollution
activity. While it enhances hydration, it does not neutralize reactive species nor form a cohesive protective film, requiring co-formulated antioxidants.1
no documented antioxidant or environmental protection properties.
Anti-inflammatory effects EPS demonstrate strong and consistent anti- inflammatory activity, supported by both in vitro and in vivo data. Their sulfated structure contributes to modulation of inflammatory mediators, including reductions in cytokines such as IL-6, IL-8 and TNF-a.6,7
In clinical models, EPS
have shown notable decreases in erythema and edema, reflecting direct soothing effects and improved skin resilience under stress. Fucoidans similarly exhibit significant anti-
inflammatory potential, attributable to their partial sulfation and interaction with immune- regulating pathways.12
However, variability in their composition leads to inconsistent performance. Hyaluronic acid displays variable anti-
inflammatory behaviour depending on molecular weight; certain low MW fractions may even promote pro-inflammatory signaling.2
Consequently, its anti-
inflammatory profile is less predictable. Biosaccharide gum-1 offers limited anti-
This dual action
inflammatory effects, mostly superficial soothing linked to hydration and sensorial comfort. Overall, EPS provide the most reproducible anti-inflammatory activity among the compared polymers.
Biosaccharide gum-1 similarly shows
Enzyme inhibition Microalgal EPS exhibit strong inhibitory activity against key enzymes involved in extracellular matrix degradation, including hyaluronidase, elastase and collagenase. This broad-spectrum inhibition helps preserve dermal components such as HA, elastin and collagen, supporting long- term firmness and reducing structural weakening associated with ageing. HA shows no inhibitory effect on these enzymes and is itself rapidly degraded by hyaluronidase, limiting the persistence of its benefits.2
Biosaccharide gum-1 similarly shows no
relevant enzyme inhibition due to its linear, non- sulfated structure. Fucoidans demonstrate partial enzyme
inhibition, although activity depends heavily on species, molecular weight and degree of sulfation.12
While some extracts show measurable
elastase or collagenase inhibition, their performance is generally lower and less consistent than that of microalgal EPS.
Microcirculation & detox Microalgal EPS exhibit unique effects on microcirculation and cellular detoxification pathways, features not documented for hyaluronic acid, biosaccharide gum-1 or fucoidans. In vivo evaluations show that EPS can enhance superficial
microcirculation, contributing to improved nutrient and oxygen delivery within the epidermis. This effect is linked to their bioadhesive matrix and their ability to support epidermal cohesion, facilitating more efficient physiological exchange. Additionally, EPS have been associated with
activation of detoxifying mechanisms, including proteasome stimulation and reductions in pollution-induced cellular damage. These actions help mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress while supporting the clearance of damaged proteins, contributing to clearer, more resilient skin.
No comparable evidence exists for HA or
biosaccharide gum-1, which act primarily on hydration without influencing microvascular dynamics or detox pathways. Fucoidans, while bioactive, have not demonstrated these specific effects in cosmetic applications.
Sustainability comparison Cultivation of red microalgae in closed photobioreactors offers one of the most controlled and resource-efficient production models currently available for cosmetic biopolymers. This system operates independently of climate variability and does not require freshwater or arable land, relying instead on seawater or recycled process water. Inputs may also include CO2
from industrial
emissions, transforming a waste stream into a valuable resource. The result is a fully traceable, low-impact process decoupled from agricultural dependency and seasonal fluctuations. Hyaluronic acid, in contrast, is typically
produced through bacterial fermentation requiring nutrient-rich media derived from agricultural crops or, historically, from animal tissues.3
These
substrates contribute to increased resource consumption and a higher environmental footprint.
www.personalcaremagazine.com
February 2026 PERSONAL CARE MAGAZINE
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