EXFOLIANTS 25
Messaging shift needed While chemical exfoliants are technically milder and less aggressive, consumers associate the word chemical with bad and acid with destructive; brands should shift their messaging of chemical exfoliants to friendlier terms, such as healthy skin, unclogging, gently removing dirt, grime, and dead skin cells. Additionally, individuals with nut allergies
should exercise caution when selecting exfoliating products. Some physical exfoliants contain ground walnut shells, which can pose a risk, while certain chemical exfoliants, such as mandelic acid, are derived from bitter almonds. Although mandelic acid is typically processed
to remove allergenic proteins, it is still advisable for those with nut sensitivities to consult product labels or dermatologists before use. However, there are clear benefits to both, and those benefits depend on the type of skin and the needed treatment. Some modern exfoliants combine mechanical and chemical actions with hydrating, soothing, barrier-repair benefits to deliver a balanced, ‘skin-friendly experience’. Certain trending chemical exfoliants include mandelic acid and phytic acid, while trending physical exfoliants include jojoba beads, rice powder, and a move to more natural and biodegradable derived materials. The future of exfoliants will be centred around
multifunctional ingredients. In many cleansers and exfoliant personal care products, it is best to stay away from adding too many ingredients. Recent research has found ingredients that
serve multiple purposes of providing benefits such as hydration, anti-inflammatory effects, and skin radiance without adding multiple ingredients. For example, rice serves as a multifunctional ingredient, a moderately aggressive natural polysaccharide that retains moisture with an outer coating that removes dead skin cells gently.
misconceptions and embrace what truly delivers innovative, gentle, science-led skin care.
References 1.
PCM
Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care. How does skin work? [Internet].
Nih.gov. Institute for Quality and Efficiency in Health Care (IQWiG); 2016.
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih. gov/books/NBK279255/
2. Soap, Bath and Shower Products - US - 2024 : Consumer market research report : Mintel. com [Internet].
https://store.mintel.com/report/ us-soap-bath-and-shower-products-market- report-2024
3. Ibrahim DA. Understanding Polyhydroxy Acid: Guide to PHAs in Skin care [Internet]. City Skin Clinic. 2023.
https://cityskinclinic.com/ polyhydroxy-acid-pha/
4. Grimes PE, Green BA, Wildnauer RH, Edison BL. The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin. Cutis. 2004 Feb 1;73(2 Suppl):3–13
It is time to reframe how we think
about exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants, long overshadowed by their physical counterparts, offer a gentle, science-backed solution for many skin types, notably sensitive skin. By moving beyond the negative connotation
and misconception by embracing ingredient transparency, brands can prioritize what truly matters: skin health for all types. Although the scrub sensation of physical exfoliants satisfies consumers with their skin care routine, chemical exfoliants are often gentler and more impactful in achieving clear skin. Newer ingredients, including polyhydroxy
acids, have been found to be gentler on the skin and best for those with skin issues. Ultimately, reframing exfoliation through the lens of efficacy and inclusivity allows us to leave behind harmful
5. Jarząbek-Perz S, Dziedzic M, Rotsztejn H, Kołodziejczak A. Evaluation of the effects of 10% and 30% gluconolactone chemical peel on sebum, pH, and TEWL. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023 Jun 19
6. Narda M, Trullas C, Brown A, Piquero-Casals J, Granger C, Fabbrocini G. Glycolic acid adjusted to pH 4 stimulates collagen production and epidermal renewal without affecting levels of proinflammatory TNF-alpha in human skin explants. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020 Jul 24;20(2):513–21
7. Moghimipour E. Hydroxy Acids, the Most Widely Used Anti-aging Agents. Jundishapur Journal of Natural Pharmaceutical Products. 2012 Jan 4;7(1):9
8.
Beautystreams.com. https://premium.
beautystreams.com/reports/pp-chemical- exfoliators-july2021
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