42 ANTI-POLLUTION
City-friendly active to restore skin balance
Emanuela Iafrate – Blagden Specialty Chemicals, Claire Leduc - Sollice Biotech
The United Nations estimate that by 2030 more than 60% of the world’s population will live in cities.1
This population is exposed to
excessive pollution that affects the whole body and our first line of defence is our skin. Blagden Specialty Chemicals presents a
‘city friendly’ active ingredient from Sollice Biotech, Vitalisis® (INCI: Citrus limon fruit extract, Pyridoxine, Glycerin) – hereafter the citrus limon extract active – that is designed to restore and maintain skin balance in urban life. The citrus limon extract active accompanies the skin through a protective effect but also by restoring and reinforcing the natural cutaneous defences. The citrus limon extract active brings the harmony to our skin. The positioning of the new citrus limon
extract active differs from other detoxifying active ingredients on the market, which are mainly intended to combat pollution and act as a shield. The citrus limon extract active is an anti-pollution cosmetic ingredient that promotes the adaptation of our skin to preserve itself and keep its radiance in an urban environment.
In vitro tests: quantification of H2 ) on normal human epidermal
production in cells The antioxidant properties of the test product were evaluated following a single UVA stress (10J/cm2
O2
keratinocytes (NHEK). The test products were added to the keratinocyte culture medium citrus limon fruit extract active molecule at 3ppm and Trolox at 20ppm as positive control, 24 hours before the UVA stress but not during the stress.
100% 80% 60% 40
20% 0%
Untreated Figure 1: Quantification of H2 O2 UVA
UVA Trolox 20ppm
UVA Citrus limon fruit extract active 3ppm
in keratinocytes exposed to UVA and
24 hours of Trolox and the new citrus limon fruit extract active molecule treatment. ***p<0.001
PERSONAL CARE July 2024
The cells were exposed to the H2DCFDA probe at 5µM for one hour at 37°C, 5% CO2
to allow its
intracellular diffusion. After rinsing, the cells were subjected to UVA stress. The quantification of the fluorescence emitted (excitation: 485 nm; emission: 520nm) was performed immediately after the end of the UVA stress. Results show that the citrus limon fruit
extract active molecule significantly decreases by 40% the level of intracellular H2
O2 O2
after UVA stress compared to the untreated control. This effect is comparable to that of Trolox, which reduces H2
but which has been tested at a concentration more than six times higher (Figure 1).
*** -40% *** produced production by 52%,
In vivo tests: reduction of carbonylated proteins The citrus limon fruit extract active ingredient decreases carbonylated proteins, which are a marker of oxidative stress in cells. All clinical tests were carried out on 42 women between 30 and 50 years old. Each volunteer presented an urban lifestyle and a dull complexion. For 28 days, the 42 volunteers used a cleansing gel.
The 42 volunteers used a facial cleansing
gel before applying a cream. 21 volunteers used the placebo (a day/night cream), and 21 volunteers used a day/night cream formulated with 1% of citrus limon fruit extract active
TABLE 1: FORMULATION EXAMPLE OF THE CREAM USED FOR CLINICAL TESTING
Substances Aqua Glycerin
Chlorphenesin Carbomer
Aqua, Sodium Hydroxide
Glyceryl Stearate, Peg-100 Stearate Cetyl Alcohol
Isopropyl Myristate
Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethiconol Cyclopentasiloxane Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol
Parfum, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone Glycerin, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Pyridoxine
%
80.5 3.0 0.2 0.2 0.6 3.0 2.5 3.0 2.0 3.0 0.5 0.4 0.1 1.0
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H2
O2
production
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