ANTI-POLLUTION
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Holistic approach for environment-sensitive skin
Richard Leroux, Agathe Le Tirant, Cecile Gavory - Seqens Personal Care
First suggested in 2005 by Dr. Christopher Wild of the International Agency for Research on Cancer, the exposome is a concept used to describe environmental exposures that an individual encounters throughout life, and how these exposures impact the skin and overall health.
The exposome impact is now well
documented and incorporates several environmental factors such as UV, pollution, chemical climate, smoking, diet, use of cosmetic products, mechanical abrasions from shaving or frictions, microbiome with skin or atmospheric microbiota, as well as internal factors such as psychological and hormonal factors and gender. According to the International Forum for
the Study of Itch, sensitive skin is ‘a syndrome defined by the occurrence of unpleasant sensations (stinging, burning, pain, pruritus, and tingling sensations) in response to stimuli that normally should not provoke such sensations. These unpleasant sensations cannot be explained by lesions attributable to any skin disease. The skin can appear normal or be accompanied by erythema. Sensitive skin can affect all body locations, especially the face’.1 Sensitive skin can be divided into two
categories: naturally sensitive skin, which is related to genetics and associated with inflammatory skin conditions (eczema, rosacea, and psoriasis) and environmentally sensitive skin that is triggered by the exposome.
Biological approach of exposome impact on the skin From a scientific perspective, the exposome is a source of inflammation that disrupts skin homeostasis. For example, it can affect the cellular production of cortisol by keratinocytes, which has a negative effect on keratinocyte proliferation. This leads to a disruption of the skin and
makes the skin more reactive to external aggression. Eventually, a vicious cycle of inflammation is established by repeated exposome aggression. A further consequence is the activation of inflammatory pathways that generate redness and inflammation. In terms of discomfort, the β-endorphin
levels will increase in response to external aggression and the specific sensory nerve receptors will also be affected, such as TRPV1 to trigger itch or pain sensations.2 At Seqens Personal Care, we decided to have a holistic approach towards
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environmentally sensitive skin. We have developed a methodology to evaluate several of our extracts on different exposome models and their impacts on the skin barrier, the inflammation and the neurosensory via many markers.3
Global and cellular approach of exposome impact A proteomic study is a global evaluation of the different proteins impacted by the application of a stress or/and an active ingredient on skin. This technology allows us to evaluate, compared to a control, the impact of a Crocus sativus flower extract at 4% on skin protein expression levels. Globally, our Crocus sativus flower extract
can boost the chemical barrier function of the skin by improving fatty acid synthetase by 132% to maintain the epidermal lipids levels in the barrier. It also stimulates corneodesmosin by 142% reinforcing cell-cell adhesion when used at a 4% use level. Our Crocus sativus flower extract reinforces the dermo-epidermal junction and protects the extracellular matrix from degradation. To evaluate nerve sensitivity in
environmentally sensitive skin, we utilized in vitro studies to assess the effect of our extract on the TRPV1 receptor in connection with itch or pain sensations. Some specific cell models have been designed to study this pathway. To assess the efficacy of Crocus sativus
flower extract on reducing the negative impact
of the TRPV1 pathway, we modified human cell line 293T cells on the TRPV1 receptor. The active showed a significant reduction in the activity of the pathway. We also evaluated the effect of the active
on primary human keratinocytes (HK) under a global stress cocktail condition to mimic dysbiosis (microbiome perturbation) and irritated damaged skin. Under stress conditions, both β-endorphin
and cortisol productions increase. At 1% concentration, Crocus sativus flower extract can significantly reduce these markers by 15% to 18%, respectively demonstrating protection at the cellular level.
Holistic evaluation of several exposome impacts Based on these results, we decided to further explore the potential of this extract on a more sophisticated model. A skin explant is a part of human skin recovered from surgeries and can be kept alive during a short period allowing an evaluation of several markers in a realistic model. We built a holistic experimental study plan
under different exposome stress types including dysbiosis,4 urban dust.6
UV-A irradiation,5 and pollution with The study was divided into two
different aspects of evaluation. The first one was a focus on several biological markers connected with the barrier function, the second aspect was focused on inflammation and the sensory pathway.
July 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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