18 INTERVIEW
TP: Skin whitening/lightening seems to remain extremely popular in Asia, but are the younger generation still interested in having lighter skin or is that more of an older generation thing? JJ: We have to be very careful about the definition of skin whitening. We’re not talking about whitening the skin in terms of, for example, people with dark brown skin becoming a bit whiter. We’re talking about getting rid of dark spots and so on. For older people, you do have these dark blemishes that appear with age but for the young people, I think it’s more about covering the scars from pimples or wanting perfect, glowing skin.
TP: Are there any other trends, textures, colours, ingredients, things that you’re seeing in K-Beauty that are hot now, or could become hot? JJ: During my presentation at in-cosmetics Korea, I will be talking about generational trends. The teens and early 20s are mainly concerned with taking care of acne. Those in their later 20s and 30s
are more concerned with enlarged pores and regenerating the skin to get rid of those pores. The 40s and 50s are mostly talking about skin elasticity. Those generational skin care
“Koreans are looking more into efficacy-oriented innovation, where people really want to notice the effect at home. And I think VT Reedle
Shot represents this trend very well.” Jayanne Jin, global editor/business developer, The K Beauty Science
TP: Just to go back a step, you said there are two stand-out K-Beauty trends you wanted to mention. One was male grooming, what was the other? JJ: The other was a mega-hit product in Korea (and Japan) this spring, VT Reedle Shot. It’s a skin care cream that has
microneedles hidden inside the lotion. When you rub into your skin, it kind of hurts! It’s kind of like poking little holes into your skin. The idea is then to use it in
conjunction with retinol serum or other ingredients for anti-ageing or skin regeneration. It makes the effect of the microneedle cream that much stronger. Something like 3.3 million bottles have been sold. So, it’s huge.
TP: Why do you think it is so popular? JJ: There was a recent survey of 1,700 Korean women that found 58% of respondents had been to
PERSONAL CARE July 2024
dermatologist for professional treatment at least once in their lifetime. That’s very high and that’s not
even insurance-covered. They pay for it with their own money. We have a lot of walk-in
dermatology clinics and a typical treatment is using microneedles to regenerate the skin. So, VT Reedle Shot is a similar
idea that you can do at home. It’s not as effective, perhaps, but it’s cheaper and it’s safe. I have bought some myself and it cost me around 25 dollars, it’s nothing. And VT Reedle Shot is not just a phenomenon among those in their 20s and 30s. Teens are using it to treat acne, they want to sort of rub it off and have new skin. Koreans are looking more into
efficacy-oriented innovation, where people really want to notice the effect at home. And I think VT Reedle Shot represents this trend very well.
TP: VT Reedle Shot sounds like the ‘surgical dupes’ trend that was presented by Provital during the World of Chemistry session I chaired at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. These are beauty products that essentially mimic dermatologist treatments. Are there anymore examples of ‘surgical dupes’? JJ: There is a lot of hype about home devices, which are derivative of dermatologist treatments. Tech companies like Samsung and LG, who are better known for making televisions and phones, are making personal skin care devices.
TP: Do you think the trend for surgical treatments is having an effect on demand for traditional cosmetic skin care products? JJ: In part, yes. But what K-Beauty does well is that we are cheap and we’re also very effective. This is the key to the success of Korean beauty products around the world.
concerns will probably always be there but what’s interesting is consumers are becoming a lot more savvy. Between 55-60% of consumers look into the ingredients of the product that they’re buying. But consumers are not just more
aware about the efficacy of certain ingredients, like retinoids, or Vitamin C, or polypeptides. There are also more aware that certain ingredients can be harsh and cause redness. So, the trending ingredients will
be what are best to take care of consumer’s skin care problems. One example is PDRN
[polydeoxyribonucleotide, commonly extracted from salmon DNA]. It has a regenerative function. Another would be snail mucin, which Koreans love.
TP: What about ingestibles? Are nutricosmetics still popular in Korea? JJ: Yes, and the Olive Young beauty store bears that out. They say ingestibles and beauty products are inseparable. People are just as conscious about taking ingestibles, be they collagen pills or jellies or whatever, as applying something to their face or body.
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