ANTI-POLLUTION D0
Crocus sativus flower extract 4% D28
39
Figure 3: Redness diminution observed with the active cream containing 4% Crocus sativus flower extract after 28 days of application Thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) is a
cytokine primarily secreted by keratinocytes. It interacts with several immune cells and, when in contact with viruses, bacteria and parasites can potently increase TSLP expression. TSLP has been shown to be involved in skin hypersensitivity and itch initiation. In the dysbiosis model, TSLP was reduced by 67% in presence of the extract (Figure 1). IL-1β is a major pro-inflammatory cytokine
secreted by immune cells and keratinocytes that plays a critical role in the initiation and maintenance of skin inflammation. Its production under UV-A and pollution inflammation was reduced by 65% in presence of the extract. Finally, we evaluated the level of IL-31, a
cytokine constitutively produced by immune cells but also secreted by keratinocytes and involved in the pathogenesis of itch severity.7 Under UV-A and pollution inflammation, IL-31 was reduced by 83% in presence of 1% Crocus sativus flower extract (Figure 2). The final evaluation was performed with
an in vivo test (redness reduction) on 20 Caucasian female volunteers with sensitive and/or reactive skin with atopic tendencies (45 ± 8 years old). A cream containing 4% Crocus sativus flower extract and a placebo were applied twice a day for 28 days with hemi- facial application. Hemoglobin quantification was performed
via SIAscope® to measure redness and a self-assessment on efficacy was realized. At the end of the evaluation, the Crocus sativus flower extract was able to reduce redness by 7% versus placebo on volunteers (Figure 3). During the self-assessment on efficacy, volunteers described their skin as more supple, softer, fresher and more comfortable.
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Conclusion Environmentally sensitive skin is an extension of sensitive skin that is a major concern for a wide range of the population. The exposome is very often the cause of skin perturbation that leads to discomfort due to a chronical stress exposure. A vicious inflammation cycle is then created with the stimulation of biological pathways that impair the skin barrier, leading to dehydration of the skin and a vulnerability to pollution or any other irritants that will exacerbate the aggravation of the skin. The skin responds to the aggressive factors
of the exposome by upregulating inflammation, which affects nerves and sensory pathways to the point of discomfort. We wanted to take a holistic approach to the global exposome from a scientific perspective to identify potential solutions to protect and soothe the skin. We carried out a complete study at the
cellular level first to identify specific markers involved in keratinocyte differentiation impairment, such as cortisol. Then to understand more about perception pathways, we looked at TRPV1 and β-endorphin levels. We then implemented an experiment
using explants for a more complete model to corroborate the impact of our active on important markers such as PGE 2, loricrin, filaggrin, IL-1β, and more specialized markers of DSC1 and DSG1. Then, our multiple stress models allowed
us to illustrate the interaction with biomarkers involved in itch and discomfort using more distinct markers such as S100A8/A9, TSLP or IL- 31; all these results confirmed the observations made during the in vivo evaluation performed on volunteers. Environmentally sensitive skin and its
effects can be reduced by a cosmetic solution
containing active ingredients such as our botanical extract Sens’Flower (Crocus sativus flower extract). This active ingredient appears to be very effective in taking a holistic approach and will help break this vicious cycle of barrier dysfunction, chronic inflammation, and discomfort to restore overall skin homeostasis.
References 1. Misery L, Ständer S, Szepietowski J, Reich A, Wallengren J, Evers A et al. Definition of Sensitive Skin: An Expert Position Paper from the Special Interest Group on Sensitive Skin of the International Forum for the Study of Itch. Acta Dermato Venereologica. 2017;97(1):4–6
2. Kueper T, Krohn M, Haustedt LO, Hatt H, Schmaus G, Vielhaber G. Inhibition of TRPV1 for the treatment of sensitive skin. Experimental Dermatology. 2010; Jul 7;19(11):980–6
3. Devi KP, Malar DS, Nabavi SF, Sureda A, Xiao J, Nabavi SM et al. Kaempferol and inflammation: From chemistry to medicine. Pharmacological Research. 2015; Sep;99:1–10
4. Seite S, Misery L. Skin sensitivity and skin microbiota: Is there a link? Experimental Dermatology. 2018; Jul 30;27(9):1061–4
5. Ansary TM, Hossain MdR, Kamiya K, Komine M, Ohtsuki M. Inflammatory Molecules Associated with Ultraviolet Radiation- Mediated Skin Aging. International Journal of Molecular Sciences. 2021; Apr 12;22(8):3974
6. Dijkhoff IM, Drasler B, Karakocak BB, Petri- Fink A, Valacchi G, Eeman M et al. Impact of airborne particulate matter on skin: a systematic review from epidemiology to in vitro studies. Particle and Fibre Toxicology. 2020; Jul 25;17(1)
7. Kabashima K, Irie H. Interleukin-31 as a Clinical Target for Pruritus Treatment. Frontiers in Medicine. 2021; Feb 12;8
July 2024 PERSONAL CARE
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