34 ANTI-POLLUTION
Protection of hair colour Exposure to UV radiation also damages hair. Reduced strength, stiffness, brittleness and dryness are some of the consequences to sunlight exposure. However, the most evident one is the fading of both dyed and natural hair colour. Pigments that artificially colour hair are
small molecules that break into radicals when receiving UVA radiation.11
After proving that the
active was efficient against UVA-induced skin radical formation, it was expected that it would protect from the generation of radicals on hair. A hair oil containing 2% of the active and
Ethylhexyl Salicylate was formulated and tested for UVA protection. Photoactivation and increment of UVA absorbance were observed after irradiating the sample in a sun simulator. The same formula was then tested ex vivo
for protection against colour fading. The colour of red dyed hair locks was first evaluated with a colorimeter and the hair oil applied. After exposure to mimicked sunlight in the sun simulator for six hours at 510 W/m2
, the hair
locks were washed and dried. The colour of the hair locks was again checked with a colorimeter and by an expert. Figure 5A shows that application of a hair
oil without the active protected the hair in 27% compared to non-treated hair. The addition of 2% of the ingredient resulted in an increment of 16% in protection. The evaluation by an expert supported these findings. The non-treated hair and the locks with the placebo hair oil showed a higher change on the scale than the ones treated with active-containing oil (Figure 5B). This test proves that the active ingredient is
suitable for other than skin care formulations particularly for hair applications to protect from hair colour fading.
Conclusion Roka Smart UV PvB 360 is a dormant active ingredient that ‘awakes’ with UVB radiation to become a potent UVA absorber. In short, it adapts to the amount of sunlight to bring long- lasting and tailored UVA protection. Because of its mechanism of action, it can prevent the
A
3 2 1
0
-27% ***
-16% *
C
150 125 100 75 50 25 0
-23% * *
150 125 100 75 50 25 0
D -54% -43% A
150 125 100 75 50 25 0
-33% -14% ** **** ****
150 125 100 75 50 25 0
B -59% -51%
** ** ****
****
****
Figure 4: Evaluation of A: ROS formation. B: mtDNA damage. C: deactivation of MMP-1/collagenase-1 pathway. D: expression of proinflammatory cytokine IL-6
UVA-induced damage of skin and hair. Especially, it has been proven effective
against skin pigmentation caused by sun exposure under real conditions. The in vitro studies on ROS, mtDNA, MMP-1 and IL-6 show that it is an excellent active ingredient to prevent skin photoageing. Although initially designed to boost the UVA-
PF of suncare products, for its photoactivation capacity as well as its demonstrated efficacy against photoageing, it is ideal for skin care products that do not need to be reapplied. This active ingredient brings extra UVA protection for a daily skin care routine to last all day.
5. Gordon JRS, Brieva JC. Unilateral Dermatoheliosis. N. Engl. Med. 2012;366(16):e25
6. Bernerd F, Passeron T, Castiel I, Marionnet C. The Damaging Effects of Long UVA (UVA1) Rays: A Major Challenge to Preserve Skin Health and Integrity. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2022;23(15):8243
7. Naidoo K, Hanna R, Birch-Marchin MA. What is the role of mitochondrial dysfunction in skin photoaging? Exp. Dermatol. 2017;27(2):124- 128
PC
References 1. Marionnet C, Pierrard C, Golebiewski C, Bernerd F. Diversity of Biological Effects Induced by Longwave UVA Rays (UVA1) in Reconstructed Skin. PLoS One. 2014;9(8): e105263
Exposed to sun simulator B Median Non-treated Hair oil 2 2
Hair oil + 2% active ingredient
1 Non-
exposed 0
Figure 5: Evaluation of colour changes in hair locks A) using a colorimeter and B) by an expert. 0 indicates no variation, 1 shows moderate variation and 2 indicates great variation
PERSONAL CARE July 2024
2. Battie C, Jitsukawa S, Bernerd F, Del Bino S, Marionnet C, Verschoore M. News insights in photoaging, UVA induced damage and skin types. Exp. Dermatol. 2014;23(Suppl. 1):7-12
3. Lindsay RS, Almutawa F, Lim HW, Hamzazi I. Effects of ultraviolet radiation, visible light, and infrared radiation on erythema and pigmentation: a review. Photochem. Photobiol. Sci. 2013;12(1):54-64
4. Guan LL, Lim HW, Mohammad TF. Sunscreens and Photoaging: A review of Current Literature. Am. J. Clin. Dermatol. 2021;22:819-828
8. Pittayapruek P, Meephansan J, Prapapan O, Komine M, Ohtsuki M. Role of Matrix Metalloproteinases in Photoaging and Photocarcinogenesis. Int. J. Mol. Sci. 2016;17(6):868
9. Salminen A, Kaarniranta K, Kauppinen A. Photoaging: UV radiation-induced inflammation and immunosuppression accelerate the aging process in the skin. Inflamm. Res. 2022; Aug;71(7-8):817-831
10. Kawano A, Kadomatsu R, Ono M, Kojima S, Tsukimoto M, Sakamoto H. Autocrine Regulation of UVA-Induced IL-6 Production via Release of ATP and Activation of P2Y Receptors. PLoS One. 2015; Jun 1;10(6):e0127919.
11. Santos Nogueira AC, Joekes I. Hair color changes and protein damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. J. Photochem. Photobiol B. 2004;74(2-3):109-117
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Total Colour Change (ΔE)
Active MMP-1 (%) relative to cell number
Oxidative stress (%)
IL-6 quantification (%) relative to cell number
mtDNA Damage (%)
Negative ctrl (Non-treated)
Hair oil Hair oil +2% active Positive ctrl (Non-exposed)
Negative ctrl (0 min pre-activation) 12 min pre-activation 60 min pre-activation Positive ctrl (100% covered)
Negative ctrl (0 SED pre-activation) Negative ctrl (0 min PvB 360) 2% PvB 360 Positive ctrl (100% covered) 5 SED pre-activation
10 SED pre-activation 20 SED pre-activation
Positive ctrl (100% covered)
Negative ctrl (0 min PvB 360) 2% PvB 360 3% PvB 360 Positive ctrl (100% covered)
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