38 ANTI-POLLUTION
Control
Exposome and barrier function For the evaluation of the barrier function, a topical S. aureus protease (0.01 µg/mL sspA) and a systemic neuropeptide cocktail (10 µM substance P + 1µM αCGRP in culture medium) were both applied daily for 48 hours to explants from a 34 year-old Caucasian female. Stressed explants were treated daily or not
with Crocus sativus flower extract at 1% for 48 hours versus control. Twenty-four hours after the last treatment (on D3), explants were sampled and in situ visualization of filaggrin, loricrin, DSG1 (desmoglein-1) and DSC1 (desmocollin-1) was performed by specific immunostaining and image processing. Loricrin is a marker connected with
epidermal differentiation and its production is negatively impacted by the applied stress. In presence of the Crocus Sativus flower extract, we observed a 36% reduction in the intensity of the impact of stress on loricrin. Filaggrin is also involved in the terminal
differentiation process of the keratinocytes and participates in the global moisturization of the skin by generating the natural moisturization factor components. The stress was reducing filaggrin production by 24% versus control, while in presence of our extract and under the same stress condition, filaggrin production was improved by 16% versus control. Similar benefits were observed for DSG1 with an improvement from -11% to +16% and for DSC1 with an improvement of -18% to -6%. Both of these markers are important in assessing desmosome composition connected
Stress
with cell cohesion and barrier function. Combined with previous results, our data confirmed the Crocus sativus flower extract has a protective impact on barrier function when exposed to stress.
Exposome versus inflammation and sensory pathway To assess inflammation and the sensory pathway, two different stress models were evaluated using skin explants from two different donors. The first model was a dysbiosis cocktail
composed with a S. aureus protease (0.01 µg/ mL sspA) and a systemic neuropeptide cocktail (10 µM substance P + 1µM αCGRP in culture medium) that were both topically applied daily for 48 hours to explants from a 34-year-old Caucasian female. Stressed explants were treated daily, with
the Crocus sativus flower extract at 1% for 48 hours. Twenty-four hours after the last treatment (on D3), explants were sampled and in situ visualization of some S100A8/A9 and TSLP (Thymic stromal lymphopoietin) were performed by specific immunostaining and image processing. The second model was a pollution and
UV-A cocktail composed with a systemic neuropeptide cocktail (10 µM substance P + 1µM αCGRP in culture medium) applied daily for 48 hours and a topical urban dust treatment (30 minutes of contact with 0.375 µg/cm2
PM10
and 20 µM benzo(a)pyrene + UV-A irradiation 6 J/cm2
for 40 minutes) at D2 were applied to explants from a 31-year-old Caucasian donor.
Stress + 1% Sens'flower Figure 1: TSLP immunostaining: in situ visualization of TSLP levels by fluorescence microscopy (TSLP in red, nuclei in blue) Stressed explants were treated daily with
Crocus sativus flower extract at 1% for 48 hours versus control. Twenty-four hours after the last treatment (on D3), explants were sampled and in situ visualization of IL-1β and IL-31 was performed by specific immunostaining and image processing. On both explant models, ELISA quantification on PGE-2 & β-endorphin levels.
PGE-2 is a prostaglandin produced by
keratinocytes and is involved in the inflammatory response cascade. PGE-2 is responsible for increasing skin blood flow, which gives the skin its redness and was promoted in both stress model at different intensities. Crocus sativus flower extract was able to reduce PGE-2 production in both dysbiosis and pollution model by 51% and 27% respectively. β-endorphin is an endogenous opioid
peptide produced by the pituitary gland but also locally by keratinocytes. β-endorphin levels are higher in inflamed and stressed skin, providing a soothing effect on inflammatory pain while also inducing itching. Under our stress conditions, β-endorphin production was reduced by 62% and 24% under dysbiosis and pollution model respectively. S100A8/A9 (also called calprotectin) is a
member of the S100-alarmin family and is released actively and exerts a critical role in modulating the inflammatory response by stimulating leukocyte recruitment and inducing cytokine secretion. The Crocus sativus flower extract was able to reduce the production of S100A8/A9 by 39%.
Control PERSONAL CARE July 2024
Stress
Stress + 1% Sens'flower Figure 2: IL-31 immunostaining: in situ visualization of IL-31 levels by fluorescence microscopy (IL-31 in green, nuclei in blue)
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