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posing Cappo Grosso and round the beautiful, isolated Cape Tenaro, captivated by its raw and simple terrain. Five hours later at Porto Kayio we shared a plate


of fresh grilled fish, salad and fries at a beachfront taverna, while Leonie floated below villages whose ‘tower’ houses resembling piles of stone perfectly blended into the landscape. We left early the next day facing a long slog across the gulf, around Cape Maleas and along the Agean mainland coast to Monemvasia. A pair of dolphins saw us on our way as we set off for the 10-hour long voyage. We identified Crete in the distance by what we


thought were clouds over the land mass but which turned out, viewed through binoculars, to be snow- capped mountains on the island. We gained an extra knot by motoring with the jib


out to catch the light winds and hurtled round the cape at 7knots, waving at the lonely monks who live at its inaccessible tip. We had travelled 88 nautical miles since leaving


Kalamata and not seen another yacht, although we did see a flock of young storks honing their flying skills by taking off and circling their rocky perches on the far side of Cape Maleas. Orthodox Easter weekend in Monemvasia is busier


than August and we immersed ourselves in the late night Good Friday traditions in the old walled medieval town. We joined a thousand devout mourners in the steep climb throught the narrow candlelit, slippery cobbled streets to the church at the top. We were following the epitaph, symbolising Jesus’ tomb, in a procession headed by a man carrying a tall cross, the epitaph bearers, singing clergy members, altar boys bearing myrrh and people holding lit candles in their hands. On the day of Resurrection we woke to the smell of spit roast lamb and joined in the traditional Easter Sunday feast at a nearby taverna, where a large table of Greek revellers celebrated Christ’s rising – Christos Anesti – with some joyful dancing. It was a memorable and moving Easter weekend,


worth the long hours at sea it took us to reach the ancient town.


A church bell hangs from a tree in Monemvasia on Easter Sunday


Mourners follow the epitaph through the streets of Monemvasia


Passage from Gaeta to Isola di Procida


Leonie bobbing below the stone villages in Porto Kayio


Monks residence at Cape Maleas


Joyful dancing celebrating Christ’s rising


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