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a whole new range of products consumers would not have thought of finding in the store. Meanwhile, UK based John Lewis is launching an in-store beauty spa concept for mid-earning consumers and super premium stores, such as Harrods and Harvey Nichols have remained strong. Wright also highlighted the growing importance of beauty specialists such as Sephora, The Body Shop, SaSa and Bath & Bodyworks, which as a group have gained sales. Parapharmacies and drugstores have also gained share, including Walgreens, CVS, Boots, Superdrug, Schlecker and Rossmann. Commenting on Superdrug Wright said: “They have innovated with a store within a store concept, with improved signage and more vitality in the cosmetics area. In the last 12 months, Superdrug has widened its range of products and services.” Wright described how the internet enables brand owners and retailers to speak directly to consumers. “It’s an exciting channel which is changing as more retailers launch e-stores,” he said. For example, Sears last year launched an e-store for Spain enabling customers to shop for all products sold in the US.
A Global View of What Consumers Want in Personal Care and How Manufacturers Have Responded
Luckshie Haran, Principal Consultant, Datamonitor
Datamonitor has conducted a survey across 20 countries which showed that 58% of consumers stick with tried and tested brands. “They like routine, familiarity and benefits they know will work,” stated Luckshie Haran. “So the challenge is to innovate so that they try new products. Consumers are looking for new ways to meet their needs but if the products don’t deliver benefits they won’t try them again.”
Haran identified key trends driven by consumer needs and manufacturer willingness to innovate. First is anti-ageing, driven by consumers demanding to stay younger longer. According to Datamonitor, 37% pay high attention to wrinkles. “Internally, people don’t feel old and buy products that maintain the outside and how they feel inside,” said
Haran. However, 34% say anti-ageing claims are not credible. “They want to believe, but want science and clinical trials.” Other important trends include the growing sophistication of men’s brands and the tween segment with new brands such as Scarlett & Crimson and Good For You Girls. Products addressing different cultures are also emerging, such as halal make-up.
Haran discussed sustainability in the context of Fairtrade. “Environmental concerns are growing globally. In the UK, 695 of consumers said the environment should take priority even if that means slower economic growth,” she said. “Almost half of consumers have ethical concerns. Manufacturers’ response has been to create sustainable packaging, ethicality, natural/organic formulations and meaningful messaging.” Other purchase motivators include a desire for value for money, buying favourite brands and sensory benefits. “Ethics should be secondary; the product must work,” she stressed. Turning to convenient PC solutions, Haran commented: “Consumers are looking at ways to save time but there is a pressure to look good.” She predicts that mobile commerce is set to overtake desktop websales by 2015. Examples of mobile commerce include Sephora to Go, providing reviews, lists, scans and bar codes and Coppertone My UV Alert, which gives UV index forecasts to engage with consumers.
How to Develop and Market Cosmetic Products in Southern Africa - A Consumer Survey with Southern African Women Dr Sybille Buchwald-Werner, Managing Director and Co-founder, Vital Solutions
Little data exists for Southern Africa, an emerging market. According to Euromonitor, the beauty market in South Africa grew by double digit growth
in 2009, while Mintel says that South Africa accounts for the majority of launches in the region {67%}. Dr Sybille Buchwald-Werner, managing director of Vital Solutions, spotted the potential of this market and has conducted a consumer study to get answers on needs and expectations as well as which ingredients people look for when purchasing cosmetics and toiletries. Key drivers included price, natural ingredients, active ingredients and performance. The study revealed a strong preference for local
ingredients such as aloe vera, devil’s claw extract, rooibos extract, marula oil and baobab oil, as well as for the widely known almond oil and shea butter. The most commonly recognised actives were the vitamins A, C and E.
In terms of expectations for haircare products, the survey showed some significant differences between blacks and whites. Black consumers were more concerned with preventing hair breakage {35%} and anti-dandruff {24%}, while white consumers are more likely to seek out products with conditioning benefits {37%} and that support shine/styling {13%}. Buchwald-Werner summarised by emphasising
the growth of the middle class and increased spending power across many socio-economic groups in Southern Africa. “They look for reliable quality skincare and haircare that meets expectations,” she said. “There are opportunities for smaller, flexible brands to enter the market with concepts that are tailored for ethnic groups and distributed in supermarkets and drugstores.” However, she warned that a market for high performance skincare ingredients and claims is not yet developed. Instead, niche products for specific ethnic groups demonstrate market potential.
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