32 Media Partner:
Marketing Trends
A great success! Helping attendees stay ahead of industry trends and proving a valuable opportunity to spark new marketing ideas, each session was full. Imogen Matthews, consultant to in-cosmetics, reviews the presentations
The key topic at this year’s marketing trends presentations was sustainability, reflecting a growing trend for ethical innovation in today’s cosmetics and
toiletries markets. Speakers from leading research companies and agencies also explored trends in anti- ageing, aesthetic medicine, emerging niche brands and discussed the social media phenomenon.
Tuesday 29 March
Sparked by Innovation, Fueled by Consumption - Emerging Ingredient Trends Anna Ibbotson, Industry Manager, Kline
Kline values the global personal care market at $300bn in 2010, which has held up well within the economy as a whole. Skincare has been the best performer over the past five years, up from its number five position to take the lead with a 30% share of the total market. “Anti-ageing is driving growth in skincare with one in two UK consumers concerned with how they are perceived in and outside the workplace. It provides a great opportunity for ingredient manufacturers,” stated Ibbotson, noting that consumers are prepared to pay a premium in the hope of looking younger and better. She identified other growth opportunities in naturals, home devices, beauty from within and men’s grooming.
sales in the US, Europe, Japan China and India, followed by conditioning polymers. “Emollients are strong drivers in China and India and part of the global natural trend,” affirmed Ibbotson, who predicted significant opportunities in these two regions for personal care ingredient growth.
Digital World of Beauty Sean Singleton, Group Managing Partner, Skive Group
In the space of a few short years, consumers have transformed the way they use the internet. Sean Singleton, group managing director of Skive Group, one of the fastest growing UK digital media agencies, described how media used to be consumed passively but as the internet grew it became more about participation and consumption. Tools, such as Facebook, Twitter and YouTube enable consumers to share and have conversations. “Brands are used to controlling their brand message, but must accept a loss of control,” explained Singleton. “However, there is a big opportunity for deeper conversations with these new tools.” Singleton believes that beauty brands have been slow to adapt to the web, but believes we have reached a tipping point, due to the billions of consumers having conversations every day. Recent statistics show there are 200m blogs and 95,000 beauty blogs, with 35-49 year old women
Sustainable Sourcing of Ingredients Amarjit Sahota, Director, Organic Monitor and Maria Oliva, Senior Advisor, UEBT
According to Organic Monitor, more companies are moving from petrochemicals to natural ingredients, such as soya based materials, with more sustainable production methods being used. In his presentation, Amarjit Sahota, Director of Organic Monitor, gave reasons for the rise in sustainable sourcing which stem from drivers such as rising ethical consumerism, supply chain pressure, the media and NGOs, laws and regulations, CSR and sustainability reporting. Sahota also talked about the social aspects of sustainability and their impact on society. “Aveda is really ahead in terms of sustainability, having made a pledge at the 1992 Earth Summit to source sustainable raw materials,” stated Sahota. As a result, Aveda are the largest user of organic essential oils in the beauty industry and their products have a low environmental impact. They are also the first beauty company to manufacture using 100% wind power and have undertaken social investment projects in the Amazon and Africa. Sahota gave other examples of brands involved in sustainability projects, including Dr Bronner’s Magic Soaps, the largest organic and fair trade beauty firm with social investments in Palestine and Sri Lanka and Weleda, described as a pioneer in sustainable development with a strong corporate ethos and the largest producer of natural medicines. Others include Florame, who recently won an award for ethically sourced ingredients from Madagascar, Chanel, for their reforestation projects in Latin America, Boots’ use of organic and fair trade ingredients and L’Oreal’s sustainable sourcing pledge. Sahota also mentioned Beraca, which ethically sources ingredients form the Amazon, Givaudan, for their Innovative Naturals programme and DuPont Tate & Lyle who has produced a novel range of sugar-based ingredients.
Maria Julia Oliva discussed the sharing of benefits of biodiversity for commercial and economic activities, a concept that arose from the 1992 Earth Summit. The recent Nagoya Protocol, set up in 2010, has been instrumental for the implementation of the fair and equitable sharing of benefits. “Ensure the way your work is portrayed with developing countries shows an understanding of benefit sharing,” she advised.
in-focus Round Table Discussion: Life Cycle Analysis: Choosing the Right Indicators
In terms of personal care ingredient trends, Kline showed that volume consumption was approximately 575,000 tonnes in 2009, based on eight categories. “Europe was the largest region for personal care ingredients post-recession and China is gaining share from Europe and the US and is now ahead of Japan,” stated Ibbotson. China has been gaining share from Europe and the US and is now ahead of Japan. Surfactants account for 34% of
proving to be the fastest growing group in the blogosphere. Many bloggers are providing integrated brand experiences online, such as videos on YouTube, Facebook pages and Twitter. “The future lies in online meeting offline with ‘augmented reality’ becoming a big trend in the next decade,” he said. “Stores will enhance the shopping experience using digital innovation.”
Olivier Jan, Executive Director, BIO Intelligence Service; Dr Jérome Payet, Director of Consulting Company, Cycleco; Gillian Briggs, Section Head, Colour Cosmetics Formulation Design, P&G; Mary- Noelle Dana, Journalist, writer and early adopter of green issues Moderator: Jacques Sebag, Director, Re-Source!
Jacques Sebag introduced the panel and the topic with the comment: “Sustainability is a brand new concept for many companies, although it has been in use for around five years and is already
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