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often an overworked word.” He maintains that sustainability needs to be defined more clearly. Oliver Jan spoke of his involvement with a number of landmark environmental projects in France and Europe. “Lifecycle assessment is about the environmental performance of a product or service that should be assessed by using a ‘cradle to grave’ approach, from the extraction of raw materials to the disposal of waste,” he stated. Dr Jerome Payet, explained how a footprint tells consumers about what they buy. “The concept has been developed over 20 years, supported by the EU. To quantify a footprint, you have to agree to a limited number of indicators, such as energy, water, ecotoxicity etc.” P&G section head, colour cosmetics formulation design, Gillian Briggs, explained P&G’s involvement in lifecycle analysis which began three years ago in beauty and grooming. “We will always demand a 10% improvement in indicators but without a decline in other indicators. It’s a trade-off, so if there’s a change to the formula, it cannot impact on something else,” she explained. For example, a reduction in pack weight can mean a big decline in footprint. “In shampoos, we looked at renewable ingredients in the packaging for Pantene.” Olivier Jan discussed the importance of labeling. “In 1998, only the carbon footprint was stated on packaging for food products. More recently, Orange has implemented an environmental label for its mobile phones featuring recyclability, carbon footprint, energy efficiency and use of natural resources. When asked how consumers can learn about these initiatives, Jan said: “They understand very little and it will take some years to perfect understanding and comparability.”
Niche Brands: Success Secrets Revealed Simon Duffy, Co-founder, Bulldog Natural Grooming and Dr Barbara Olioso, Founder, Forest Secrets
Moderator: Angelika Meiss, Senior Editor, COSSMA magazine
New for the 2011 trends presentations were brand interviews with niche brands Bulldog and Forest Secrets, conducted by Angelika Meiss, senior editor COSSMA magazine. She began by asking what triggered them to start their brand. Simon Duffy spotted a gap for a natural men’s brand when shopping in Wholefoods in New York and found there was none. Dr Olioso has a scientific background but felt frustration when developing natural formulations for others. “I knew there were much better emulsifiers out there. Also, many didn’t take into account sustainability issues, such as the fact that many emulsifiers are derived from palm oil from areas of deforestation.” Talking about Bulldog’s formulations, Duffy said:
“We are proud of the ingredients which stack up well with L’Oreal, Nivea, Gillette, etc. “Bulldog is the first male skincare certified as cruelty free and that includes Fair Trade ingredients. The challenge is that men don’t care and are not using natural products, so they are not front of mind. We try to connect with them and get them to go to the website.” Dr
Olioso chose the name Forest Secrets, because it can be compared to the skin. “It’s alive, breathes and changes with the seasons,” she explained. Her brand is sold mainly online and, from May 2011, will be stocked in Urban Retreat, Harrods.
Wednesday 30 March
Anti-Ageing: Innovation from Around the Globe Vivienne Rudd, Senior European Beauty Analyst, Mintel Beauty Innovation
Despite economic pressures, Mintel has recorded growth for facial skincare in 2010, with anti-ageing skincare proving to be the most dynamic sector. Europe is the biggest market for anti-ageing skincare at €2.4bn, with the US not far behind due to a recovery in premium products. Vivienne Rudd explained how demographic changes have fueled this growth. “Traditionally, brands have targeted the 35-44 age group, but this group is falling in many of the world’s developed skincare markets. The key rises will be among the 55-64s and over 65s,” she suggested, warning that this will be a challenge for the anti-ageing skincare industry as these age groups are less likely to use facial skincare products than their younger counterparts. Positive growth factors include a combination of improved diet and healthcare with increased lifespan and more years in unemployment means that people want to look good for their age for as long as possible. Mintel’s research shows that fine lines and wrinkles are the top concerns amongst two thirds of women. In terms of product launches, Mintel has seen anti-ageing launches increase significantly in China and Japan. Key claims include: sirtuins, fullerenes, SOD, human oliopeptide-1 {EGF}, NGF {Nerve Growth Factor, animal derived placenta/collagen, stem cells, neuro skin theory and anti-ageing devices used in skincare and for home laser technology. Rudd highlighted finished product examples for each of these categories. “The growth trajectory for EGF’s is steep, with double the number of launches from 2008 to 2010,” she stated. “Asia leads the trend for EGF-derived products, but Europe and North America are also picking up on the claim.” She also referred to fullerenes, which several years ago fell out of favour due to consumer concerns with nanotechnology. “They are now back with Europe taking the lead and we are anticipating many more.” Similarly, Europe is ahead when it comes to stem cells, coming mostly from apples, but there are other plants yielding their secrets, including raspberry and Alpine rose. Rudd predicted: “In the future there will be more biochemistry and more sophisticated anti-ageing products. We will see more protection {e.g. from harmful UV rays} and botanical/marine extacts as physical barriers.”
Global Beauty and Personal Care - The Year in Review & Winning Strategies for the Future Irina Barbalova, Head of Global Beauty and Personal Care Research, Euromonitor International
According to Euromonitor’s data for 2010, the global cosmetics and toiletries markets are gradually
returning to growth, but the recovery is slow and uneven. Western Europe has been the slowest to recover and many countries are still seeing high levels of unemployment. “Consumer needs are more diverse post-recession, as they become value-seeking, demanding of services and experiences and being digitally connected,” commented Barbalova. In terms of product categories, Euromonitor
records skincare and colour cosmetics as being weak, whilst functional ones, such as oral care and shower products, have picked up. Haircare has struggled in 2010, but premium shampoos doubled their growth in Russia, helping to pull up haircare sales overall. Babycare and men’s products also achieved strong results. Barbalova highlighted private label as an area of growth due to an increased pace of innovation. “Private label growth has been higher in non-traditional sectors such as skincare and men’s toiletries. Their portfolio with sophisticated formulations resonates with consumers,” she said, observing that private label taps into both budget and high end lines with a focus on product efficacy and ingredients, many of which are “green”, and a trend towards diversifying existing lines.
Barbalova also discussed beauty as an experience with the internet, non-store retailing and direct selling all playing a big role. “Beauty continues to adapt in a more experiential way,” she explained, highlighting how social media is at the forefront of companies’ strategy, making messages easier to spread. She cited how many of the major players are now online, including P&G, Estée Lauder and L’Oreal. “MAC is the most successful with over 1.5m fans on Facebook”, she pointed out, saying that social commerce is still limited. She also discussed the growing importance of smartphone apps, virtual connectivity using barcodes and the increase in in-store services, such as spas.
Anti-ageing Skincare & Aesthetic Medicine Emmanuelle Bassmann, Managing Director, In-Trend Ltd and Bérengere Boucly, Marketing Manager, Filorga
Emmanuelle Bassmann set the scene for the aesthetic medicine market by providing statistics on the growing numbers of women opting for cosmetic procedures. Women aged 25-70+ are the largest demographic group. “Baby boomers will keep doing it once they start, even when they are 70,” maintained Bassmann. “The average is women in their 40s/50s, but many are younger.” US consumers are most inclined to have cosmetic treatments, although few choose to do so. Almost three out of four Americans have not had any and only 5-10% say they have.
The landscape for aesthetic medicine is growing outside doctors’ offices, with medical spas and spas offering a range of treatments, including microdermabrasion, laser skin treatments and peels. “Previously there used to be a focus on wrinkles, but nowadays it’s about improving skin texture.” Botox and fillers are the most popular procedures, but Bassmann has seen a trend for most dermatologists and plastic surgeons to put their patients on skincare maintenance programs.
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