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Physician-dispensed brands in the UK and the US include brands such as Filorga, pH Advantage, Skinceuticals, Neutrogena Clinical, GoodSkin Labs and La Roche-Posay. Maintenance procedures include IPL, an entrance light source treatment said to reverse type one photoageing and stimulate collagen production. Peels and microdermabrasian are also top maintenance procedures. “One of the growing trends is for low energy lasers with fewer side effects and less downtime, but they require more than one session,” stated Bassmann. Berengere Boucly, Marketing Manager, Filorga, gave a case study of how the company has used its expertise in mesotherapy to launch a range of anti-ageing dermo-cosmetics. Filorga dermo- cosmetics came onto the market in 2007. The products mimic mesotherapy carried out in the doctor’s office {administered all over the skin using fine needles} and uses the same formula based on hyaluronic acid, vitamins, amino acids, co-enzymes, minerals and anti-oxidants. The objective is to rejuvenate the skin using a revitalizing solution. Talking about the future of mesotherapy, Boucly sees a time that products will target and inject stem cells using time-release active ingredients and new devices to replace injections.
Eco-Design: Achieving a Positive Environmental Impact Michel Philippe, Green and Sustainable Chemistry Manager, L’Oreal; Pascal Bordat, VP Aveda R&D/EL Botanical Technology, Estée Lauder
Moderator: Mary-Noelle Dana, Journalist, writer and early adopter of green issues
Transparency along the supply chain was discussed as a key issue for manufacturers. Bordat talked about the challenges in getting access to the knowledge of indigenous communities about plants which have been used for centuries and preserving them. “We must make sure we have constructive dialogue with both suppliers and communities,” he said, stressing that traceability is hard to achieve. “The sourcing of work with communities is based on the work of three organisations: the Convention of Biological Diversity set up in 1992, the UN Declaration of Rights of Communities and the Nagoya Protocol, signed on November 10th last year.” All of these originated from the Earth Summit in Rio de Janeiro in 1992. 40 countries have now signed to the Nagoya Protocol which has laid down rules on how to access the biodiversity. Michel Philippe described how L’Oreal has been involved in green chemistry for many years. “New technologies are at stake that can make an impact,” he maintained. “Sustainable processes are very important when developing new ingredients. Green chemistry covers economic, environmental and social issues and L’Oreal has 32 assessment criteria when working with suppliers.”
in-focus Round Table Discussion Keynote Speech
Communicating Sustainability with Transparency
Filipe Sabará, Business Director, Beraca
Sabará’s presentation focused on the need for transparency when communicating sustainability issues. “It’s about what we do socially and environmentally, especially in Third World countries. There’s no free lunch and someone will pay for this development,” he maintained, stressing that consumers won’t pay extra for something they don’t know where it comes from. He called for a global standard for sustainability that consumers understand. Sabará explained how Beraca, founded by his grandfather, believes in transforming nature into beauty. “Values had to be changed over the years as we are working directly in the rainforest. When using traditional knowledge you need to be transparent about how you are protecting that and the biodiversity.” In 2000, Beraca founded the Biodiversity Enhancement Program to achieve this aim. Awards and certification are very important and Beraca claims to work with the best partners including Ecocert and Fair Wild.
Mary-Noelle Dana commented: “Chemistry and biology teams are working together in new ways that we would not have been able to anticipate. The key issue is learning to participate.” Philippe added: “We have to anticipate the consequences when using new technologies and prepare new ingredients with lower impact in the future. We have to improve existing ingredients as well.”
Innovation in Personal Care: Perspectives from Consumers and Innovators Gillian Morris, Director in the Chemicals & Materials Consulting Practice, Kline
Morris presented insights from a Kline Pulse study called Consumer Insight of Personal Care Innovation, USA 2010, asking consumers for stories about how they view innovation and what they’d like to see. “Consumers respond well to newness in unexpected ways,” affirmed Morris. “They talked about tactile, packaging, performance, claims and how products are marketed. However, they voiced frustration at the use of very young, perfect looking models with no relationship with the consumer target.” The study revealed that newness and uniqueness resonates with consumers, but consumers dislike changes made to products that already perform well. “Familiarity is desired with newness, novelty and uniqueness. Playing around with packaging is risky as they have a fine memory
recall of products they use. Confusion arises if it starts to change,” she said.
Morris continued with a history of product innovation, citing major success stories in personal care since the 1990s. They included 2-in1 shampoos, bodywashes with sponges, unisex fragrances, AHA’s, hand sanitisers, pore strips, long lasting lipstick and one coat nail polish. From 2000, there was long lasting high shine lip gloss, flash breath strips, cleansing cloths, microdermabrasion, peptide technology and acne treatment systems, amongst others. A lot of actives have come from drug development, wound care, biopolymers, extraction techniques {botanicals}, delivery systems and food.
In 2010, Kline held discussions with R&D intensive companies in B2B and B2C industry sectors to find out the role of innovation within the organisation. The results threw up a number of challenges such as a disconnect between R&D and the rest of the business, too much bureaucracy and that projects take too long to complete. “R&D can be seen as downtrodden with low staff morale,” observed Morris, who believes companies must not reinforce the idea that R&D are in an ivory tower.
Thursday 31 March
How Retailing Changes are Affecting the Distribution of Beauty and Personal Care Goods John Wright, Head of Global Retailing Research, Euromonitor International
According to Wright the retail environment is changing as consumers look to save, look for convenience, grocers grow their presence and internet retailing encroaches. However, contrary to the wide-held belief that supermarkets have been cleaning up in cosmetics and toiletries, the long- term trends suggest more gradual growth for the grocery sector. Euromonitor data suggests that grocery retailers have only gained 1% in global share terms over 15 years. The changes that have occurred have come from other retail channels, including beauty specialists, such as Sephora, parapharmacies and drugstores, including Superdrug and internet retailing. “Consumers look for convenience but want assurance over quality which comes from the authority of the channel and the sales staff,” explained Wright, giving examples of retailers who have been going that extra mile to reach out to consumers. Department stores have been the worst affected by these changes, declining year on year from 2000 to 2010 on a global basis. “Many thought department stores were not the shop of the future and shopped elsewhere. They are perceived as expensive, as the shop where one’s parents shop and there is a staid perception that the product always looks the same, unlike fashion retailers such as H&M and Zara, where the stock turn is much quicker,” stated Wright. However, some have fought back, such as JC Penny which has taken on board the idea of slow stock turn and staidness but introduced third party providers, including Sephora. US department stores retailer Macy’s has introduced My Macy’s into 50 stores which includes
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