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in-focus Projects Illustrating different dimensions of sustainable development New Ingredients - Rethink Natural!


IRB Vegetable Stem Cells - Nature Direct from the Lab


High in the Alps, the Edelweiss is one of nature’s most perfect symbols of purity. Living in altitude, resistant to more UV rays and harsher climatic conditions, it is also a prodigious source of anti- ageing molecules. Now what if instead of collecting flowers from the mountain, drying them, reducing them to powder, shipping them to a plant and extracting their substances with a solvent, you could cultivate their precious cells in a laboratory and directly use those fresh cells in serum. With two original prototypes, IRB brings us a new vision of nature in a jar; sustainable, quantified, precisely monitored, in other words genuinely transparent.


Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH Biocatalysis - Engineering Nature for a Greener Touch When it comes to producing functional substances, nature is no doubt the most innovative and versatile laboratory. Rethinking its manufacturing processes in a sustainable perspective, Evonik has had a close look at the way enzymes enhance reactions in nature. Based on their unique expertise they have developed a new versatile enzyme reactor based on a bubble column (BCR). For the first time, it allows an ultra eco-efficient processing of complex, multi- phase mixtures using renewable resources. Evonik uses an enzymatic process which lowers the energy consumption by about 60% and reduces the amount of pollutants by up to 88%. At in-focus, Evonik bought a pilot version of the reactor as well as samples of textures formulated with the resulting new generation of emollients and emulsifiers: invented by nature, perfected by science.


Merck Nature Identical - All the Power of Nature, More Efficiently Dihydroxy Methylchromone (DHMC) is an interesting cosmetic ingredient which exhibits activities found in many medicinal plants indigenous to locations around the world. In evaluating sustainability aspects of producing “nature-identical” DHMC via a synthetic process versus isolation of DHMC through a classical extraction processes, it became readily apparent that the synthetic route was more environmentally sustainable rather than extraction. In a second initiative, Merck optimised the


“nature-identical” DHMC synthesis and nearly achieved a 50% reduction in the use of organic


solvents, above 80% reduction in water consumption and lowered CO2


emissions to almost


zero. At in-focus, Merck featured DHMC in a formulation kit containing a collection of prototype products illustrating aspects of Merck’s global involvement and commitment to sustainability.


Eco-design - The New Principles of Product Innovation


Beyond sourcing the right ingredients, it is the complete process of product development that needs to be rethought. The capacity of brands to anticipate the impacts of their activities at every step of the product life cycle will greatly determine their success in the future.


Croda, Sederma, Crodarom @1 with Nature - Fitting your Definition of Sustainability Without Compromise Sustainable development is still in its infancy and as a result there is an endless list of definitions for green and sustainable products. Now, whatever the criteria adopted, Croda believe there is one thing that should not be sacrificed; product performance. While the debates continue, chemists in the lab need to deliver the right formula. To reflect the different definitions of green and sustainable cosmetics that exist in today’s personal care market, the Croda Group has created three eco-designed formulations using a variety of new technologies and ingredients to meet different consumer needs according to their personal level of ‘greenness’. A creative exercise to showcase the latest resources available to improve your innovation processes: vegetable cell culture, patented microwave extraction techniques, Ecocert approved emulsifiers, solubilisers and sunscreens and Croda’s Blue Technology; a concept that has been applied to all 3 formulations, demonstrating how suppliers can exploit cold processing using a host of Croda’s new and existing ingredients.


Sinerga Essential - Triming Innovation


Sustainable development is sometimes associated with rougher, simpler more basic products, while it is exactly the opposite. Rethinking product innovation means integrating multiple and complex data, getting rid of the unnecessary and sharpening


creativity. The result is trimmer products with greater functional and sensorial performance. Inspired by their EWOcream®


– a vegetable PEG


and palm oil free emulsifier obtained by an innovative patented Microwave technology – Sinerga has developed Essential, a prototype day cream with a comprehensive analysis of its environmental impacts.


Aldivia


Elix’Air - Rethinking H20 in Shampoo Formulation Today, water is the most important ingredient in shampoo formulation. While water is precisely a precious resource we want to preserve, water free shampoos are usually terrible products to use. Now what if you could save up to 90% of water compared to classical shampoos, cut down CO2 emission by 70% and increase biodegradability without losing the comfort and efficiency you have learned to appreciate with most recent formulas. This is exactly what Aldivia has created with a unique product concept based on their latest green chemistry surfactant technology. This was an in-focus exclusive.


Solabia Resource Plant, Putting Back Man and Nature at the Center


The principle of Eco-design should not only apply to product innovation. It also proves highly valid when evaluating the opportunity of plant sourcing. Getting the next novel anti-ageing molecule should not be the sole criteria. What are the long-term impacts of cultivating this particular plant in a particular region? What are the expected benefits for the people who live there? How will it impact the balance between the social, the cultural and the local bio-diversity? These very questions have led Solabia to develop the novel concept of “Resource Plant” - a plant that should only be developed if its cultivation can prove to deliver sustainable benefits for man as well as nature.


The concept is now laying the foundations of a whole new approach to new ingredient development as well as product formulation. Something that Solabia in association with Labosphère demonstrated with an exclusive product concept based on the Araucaria Pine tree and other vegetable ingredients.


WATCH


in-focus video www.in-cosmetics.com/infocus


SAVE THE DATE


Barcelona, 17 – 19 April 2012 www.in-cosmetics.com


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