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The green revolution beyond natural
A special feature area showcasing trend setting technologies and product concepts, in-focus was not just another innovation platform; it was an actual laboratory where new ideas and creations took shape.
The first decade of the 21st century has given birth to the green revolution. During these glorious years, green was the flag of small challenging brands with an organic stamp or medicinal herbs on their packaging. At the same time, shipping an oil press to an exotic tribe somewhere in the southern hemisphere was enough to get you an ethical status. Well, things have changed and green can no longer be resumed to the fragile sign of idealist entrepreneurs or the arguable varnish of opportunistic brands. The new edition of in-focus gave professionals the opportunity to measure the depth and span of the actual revolution at work.
“I thought it was probably the best in-focus I have seen. Very good presentations on Sustainability and it showed off the different approaches.” Craig Davies, R&D Executive, Pz Cussons, UK
Long Term and Transparency – the New Values of Product Innovation
In a highly competitive market, where Sephora windows change every three weeks or so and brands seem to be launching new products every month, being able to move fast and keep the next hot plant a secret have been winning tactical elements. However, playing with nature may change the rules.
When deciding to source a plant in a far away
territory, accessibility is actually less determined by the density of the jungle or the entanglements of biochemistry than by our ability to establish a relationship with local culture. This is not only a question of paying a fair price in exchange for traditional plants. It is about being able to gain trust and confidence and the possibility of yielding mutual and balanced benefits for all parties in the long run. Without these preambles, there is no way a company can secure quality over time. Said like this, it sounds plainly obvious. However, when
Setting up New Metrics for Product Performance Until recently the performance of a product was evaluated in terms of activity on the hair or the skin, easiness of formulation and safety. Now we have to take into account new elements; environmental impact and social responsibility. In order to manage those and implement the relevant innovation policies, they need to be measured. This implies new frameworks for product innovation with indicators scaling the environmental impact of
considerable time and effort in building up this expertise will allow them to be among the most influential players in the green revolution 2.0.
Green Revolution 2.0. Achieving a Positive Impact In the early 2000’s the green wave worked as a wake up call; nature, hence our future is endangered by the way we make and dispose of things. The instant reflex translated into an urgent need for natural products that could be more
applied to product innovation cycles, it is radically shifting our time perspective; gaining confidence, growing plants and learning the right processes takes more time than a few weeks. At in-focus, this was particularly well illustrated by a unique feature brought by Beraca staging Khiels as a guest star; a joint project between a supplier and a brand explained step by step. The Brazilian supplier designed a gallery to present the “Acai case” from organizing the collection of the Acai seeds in the Amazon to the design of the Acai line by Khiels and how even the marketing of products involved the creativity of local growers. Of course it almost sounds too good to be true. However, the upstream and long term commitment of the brand is there, and the publicity of the partnership with Beraca reveals a new degree of transparency in matters of ingredients sourcing. With the age of globalisation and light speed communication, international groups are capable of interfacing with small independent suppliers and committing themselves in a sustainable manner. One world is not replacing the other; they co-exist and need time to adjust to one another.
products from cradle to grave. During the first in-focus round table, Olivier Jan, Executive Director of Bio Intelligence Service and Dr Jérôme Payet, Director of Cycleco, presented the fundamental principles of Life Cycle Analysis and the complexity of defining efficient and meaningful indicators. They also touched on the difficulty of building databases on ingredients, so that brands may compute the status of their finished products. However difficult, getting to understand how a
product may weigh on the environment has become a priority and all the big players are seriously engaged in the implementation of eco- design; optimising the design of new products to limit and reduce their potential harmful impacts. Building upon the expertise in detergents, P&G has been transferring its know-how to the beauty sector. Gillian Briggs, Section Head, Color Cosmetics Formulation Design, at P&G explained how developing a multi-indicator approach based on the most stringent references involves months of work and experts from different teams. Getting greener on a global scale with really meaningful results is a learning process. This is why investing
The Ethical Journey
A showcase from plant to product by BERACA – Kiehl’s Acai case study View the in-focus video at
www.in-cosmetics.com/infocus
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