46
163. JACKSON, John. A treatise on Wood engraving historical and practical With upwards of three hundred illustrations engraved on Wood. Charles Knight and Co. 1839.
£298
4to., contemporary half black pebble-grain morocco ruled in gilt over marbled paper covered boards, spine lettered in gilt. binding slightly rubbed, a little occasional browning, generally a very good copy.
first edition. containing at p.712 the rare baxter print which is nearly always missing.
164. JACQMAR. “into battle” headsquare. 1942-3.
£450
830 x 830 mm. rayon, full colour regimental badges on cream background with blue bordered star.
this is one of Jacqmar’s most iconic propaganda headscarves of the war, designed by Arnold lever as a direct appeal to the patriotic spirit.
Jacqueline M. Atkins, Wearing Propaganda 1931-1945, fig 11.3 in a different colourway.
165
166. JAMES, Henry. terminations: the death of the lion. the coxon fund. the middle years. the Altar of the dead. New York: Harper & Brothers. 1895.
£148
8vo. original pale green cloth, lettered in gilt on front cover and spine, three flower-and-leaf ornaments in gilt and green on front cover; pp. [vi] + 242 + [6, advertisements]; a little rubbing to head of spine, neat ink names, otherwise a very nice copy.
first American edition in the secondary binding without the flower 164 165. JACQMAR. digby morton skirt suit. c. 1940s. £1,000
Approx. uk size 8. Jacket in black wool with velvet collar and rayon lining with wide lapels and label ‘designed by digby morton/made by Jacqmar/ 16 grosvenor st., london W1, with matching black wool skirt with zip to left side and label ‘digby morton/ grosvenor hill/ london W1’ and matching black leather-backed belt; very good condition.
this new look-style skirt suit is too extravagant, with its wide folding lapels that give the illusion of a jacket front opening over a waistcoat, to have been part of the utility Wear scheme and must have been worth a large number of clothing coupons. yet it would have seemed worth the expense; digby morton (1906-1983) was one of the top london couturiers of the time. his aim was ‘to transform the suit from the strict tailleur, or the ordinary country tweed fit only for the moors, into an intricately cut and carefully designed garment, so fashionable that it could be worn with confidence at the ritz.’ (dnb). he was also closely involved in the war effort, being one of the board of trade’s approved designers for the utility Wear scheme and the creator of the Wvs uniform. this is an unusual collaboration with Jacqmar, the fashion house celebrated for its headscarves, and is a rare piece of 1940s fashion.
ornament on spine.. Edel & Laurence 45b.
166
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