INSIDE Crochet | History of CroCHet
The Theories
Naalebinding pre-dates both knitting and crochet. It’s a form of fabric-making that is still used in Iran and Scandinavia today, and it creates a dense and warm material. It differs from crochet in that, although it uses one needle, shorter lengths of yarn are used and the full length of the working thread is pulled through each loop. The oldest known
samples are coloured, intricately patterned sandal socks used by coptic Christians in fourth-century Egypt. Shawls and hats from Pracas and Nazca cultures in Peru date between 300BC and 300AD. Other possible crochet pretenders have been Pamir Jurabs (thick socks believed to have been created using a hook, in a process developed as an extension of rug making), but again, no dates or quantifiable evidence are provided for this theory. The surviving examples seem to bear a remarkable resemblance to naalebinding. Then there’s the theory that crochet originated in China. Tambouring is an ancient Chinese form of chain stitch embroidery, worked on a fabric stretched on a frame. It was redefined by the French by taking away the backing fabric and effectively crocheting into the air. However, it is unlikely that this was an early form of crochet, since the set up of the hooks and frames rules out effective crocheting. My favourite theory is that crochet has been around for far longer than anyone realises, but it was worked with a bent forefinger and no tools whatsoever! As the fabric has since disintegrated, no evidence remains to either prove (or disprove) this theory. A major flaw with this is that there
below riGHt: One of the eight scarves crocheted by Queen Victoria for troops that served in the Anglo-Boer War. below: The initials stitched on the scarf read ‘VRI’ – Victoria Regina et Imperatrix (Victoria Queen and Empress).
Above: Traditional Naalebinding techniques were used to create these mittens, from our sister magazine, Yarn Forward (issue 24) – see p33.
are surviving pieces of knitted, woven, knotted and other fabrics – everything, it seems, but crochet. So, we can’t be sure whether crochet existed before the 17th century. We do know that crochet gained popularity in the 1800s, where it emerged as a cheaper alternative to producing lace. However, it was deemed to be an imitation status symbol, fit only for the emerging middle classes. The upper classes frowned upon crochet because it was perceived as a cheap copy – but then, they could afford lace. In the 1840s, Mademoiselle Riego de la Branchardiere published 11 crochet books, converting needle and bobbin lace patterns into crochet. She is popularly credited with the invention of Irish crochet lace, which became the saving grace of many a poor family hit by famine and war in Ireland and France.
Fit for royalty
Queen Victoria famously purchased some Irish crochet lace to enhance its popularity and she even learnt to crochet herself. She made eight scarves (referred to as ‘mufflers’ in contemporary letters and documents) for presentation to troops serving in both colonial and British units during the Anglo-Boer War. Prince Christian Victor gave these to the troops in 1900. Each scarf was 23cm/9in by 152cm/60in, with a 10cm/4in fringe at each end. They were worn over the shoulder, across the chest and buckled at the hip. It’s incredible to think of a monarch bestowing handmade gifts. Queen Victoria always took an interest in the forces, even sending chocolates to every soldier in early 1900 and, by making the scarves herself, I’d like to think she was saying a personal thank you with every stitch. Influenced by the monarch, crochet grew in popularity and peaked between 1910 and 1920, with Edwardian fashions calling for more complex stitch patterns. It was also seen as a ladylike activity, which presented a lady’s hands at their best for any would-be suitors. Pattern
42 | INSIDE Crochet
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