The peaked roof is cut from plain styrene sheet and rests on the front wall of the tender and a second piece glued inside (left). The
quire several modifications to the floor, starting with removing the electrical plug and housing, as well as the two round mounting posts located towards the truck-mounting bolt. The IHC tender trucks feature a tab at one end that re- cesses into the tender floor, and the tab should be filed flush with the floor. Remove the two extensions with the molded chains from the rear of the ten- der, as well as the eight semi-circular dimples on the sides, cast-on steps and angle bracing; cut them off using a chisel blade. Remove the two rectangu- lar tabs molded to the front of the ten- der floor, then remove the molded tool- box from the underside by cutting it away with a chisel blade.
The IHC tender has the same style
of drawbar connector to the locomotive that is standard with most model steam locomotives. A long pin is on the underside of the tender, and it is best removed by cutting it off with a rotary tool. The brass collar around the pin can be removed by drilling through the center of the pin and carefully allowing the heat from drilling to melt the ten- der floor around it.
new false floor and patch from the tender drawbar pin show clearly in the photo at the right. The nut secures the truck-mounting screw.
To add the false floor that can be seen through the open doorway of the tender front, add shims of Evergreen Scale Models No.
115, styrene .015″×.100″
strip styrene to the top of the floor and cover these with Evergreen No. 9010, .010″ plain
sheet. Cut two
pieces of styrene sheet to the interior width of the tender shell and mount one piece onto the floor and a second into the tender shell to form a false wall. Finally, fill the round opening in the top of the floor with scrap styrene and putty over the hole. Unlike the IHC model, the CNJ ten- der featured fishbelly side sills similar to a flatcar. To change this, new sills will have to be constructed from styrene strip and sheet. Then, they will be glued to the tender. Begin by adding the square corner filler blocks to each end of the tender. Cut and cement .020″× .125" styrene strip to each corner except at the rear of the tender where there are molded round dimples. Once the strip has been cemented in place it may be filed even at the top and bottom of the tender floor using a straight file. A template for the new side sills can
be made from cardstock. Cut it to fit be- tween the square blocks which were just added. Place the template onto a strip of .010″×.250″ styrene and trace it onto the styrene. Cut the piece to shape and test-fit it on the tender frame; after any adjustments have been made, place the new side sill onto a piece of glass and tape down the lower edge.
the CNJ fire car had heavy fishbelly side sills; these are modeled with strip styrene for the web and flanges. Make the pieces match the model—cut them long and then trim them.
RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN
The top and bottom flanges are .010″ by .030″ styrene strip cemented to the top and bottom edges of the side sill. Cut them longer than necessary and trim them later. After the glue joints are cured, the pieces may be removed from the glass by gently prying them up us- ing a No. 17 chisel blade to cut through any glue joint between them and the glass. Once the side sills are free from the glass, additional cement may be ap- plied from behind to reinforce the joints, then the excess on the strips may be cut even with the ends of the fishbelly pieces. The new sides can now be mounted on the tender frame, and mesh grating can be applied to the area in front of the false floor. Detailing the fire car body will entail adding ladders, brake gear and grab irons. Each side features a ladder which can be constructed using two strips of .010″×.030″ styrene for the upright supports and then installing 17″ drop style grab irons into the upright sup- port strips. Another option is to install ladder stock on the sides of the car. Ladders should be added to the left side of each end and along the right edge of each side. (See the photos.) In- stall upright strips at each of these loca- tions, then mark the grab iron locations, drill No. 80 holes, and insert the grabs. Adjust the grabs so the protrusion from the body is even and cement these in place from the interior of the body. After the ladders are in place, the rear of the tender can be detailed, adding an old style “high” brake wheel, Plano brake platform and a Detail Asso-
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