This page contains a Flash digital edition of a book.
After a third coat of latex, place a layer of cheese cloth (above left) on top of the coated area. This will strengthen the molds surface. Then put more latex over the cheese cloth. Dab it on and


then brush it towards the edges while holding the center in place and work it into the ridges and deep cuts (above right). Addition- al layers should be applied to add to the thickness of the mold.


Add several more layers (above) for thickness; apply the latex till the cheese cloth is barely visible. Once the mold is removed from the master (below left) it needs to be cleaned of any rock fragments from the master. Boil the mold, clean it and let it cure for a few days (below right) before using it for scenicking a layout.


After the first three layers are done, I add a layer of cheese cloth to the mold for reinforcement of the top of the mold. Just lay the cloth on the top of


the latex and then put on a heavy coat of latex. Dab the latex on and while holding the cheese cloth in the center brush toward the edges. Work the


cheese cloth into the deep ridges and cracks of the master and then let it dry. I usually add two more heavy coats of latex to the mold for a total of six coats to build up the thickness of the mold. Then, I let the mold cure for a day or two before I peel it off the master. When removing the mold, start work- ing around the edges like you are rub- bing rubber cement from something. The edges will start to roll up and when you can get a grip then gently and slowly pull the mold off the master. Sometimes pieces of the molded rock will break off and stick to the mold. Just clean these out of the mold. I let the mold sit for a couple of more days to cure, and then boil it in water for about five minutes. This seems to remove the stickiness from the mold and keeps it flexible. When the mold is dry, it is ready for use. Molds without deep undercuts will last for a long time. Molds made this way are more flexible than most store bought molds and can be bent around or over obsta- cles. I still have some I made in the late 1970’s and although they are a little bit stiff from age, they are still useable.


RAILROAD MODEL CRAFTSMAN


53


Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  |  Page 4  |  Page 5  |  Page 6  |  Page 7  |  Page 8  |  Page 9  |  Page 10  |  Page 11  |  Page 12  |  Page 13  |  Page 14  |  Page 15  |  Page 16  |  Page 17  |  Page 18  |  Page 19  |  Page 20  |  Page 21  |  Page 22  |  Page 23  |  Page 24  |  Page 25  |  Page 26  |  Page 27  |  Page 28  |  Page 29  |  Page 30  |  Page 31  |  Page 32  |  Page 33  |  Page 34  |  Page 35  |  Page 36  |  Page 37  |  Page 38  |  Page 39  |  Page 40  |  Page 41  |  Page 42  |  Page 43  |  Page 44  |  Page 45  |  Page 46  |  Page 47  |  Page 48  |  Page 49  |  Page 50  |  Page 51  |  Page 52  |  Page 53  |  Page 54  |  Page 55  |  Page 56  |  Page 57  |  Page 58  |  Page 59  |  Page 60  |  Page 61  |  Page 62  |  Page 63  |  Page 64  |  Page 65  |  Page 66  |  Page 67  |  Page 68  |  Page 69  |  Page 70  |  Page 71  |  Page 72  |  Page 73  |  Page 74  |  Page 75  |  Page 76  |  Page 77  |  Page 78  |  Page 79  |  Page 80  |  Page 81  |  Page 82  |  Page 83  |  Page 84  |  Page 85  |  Page 86  |  Page 87  |  Page 88  |  Page 89  |  Page 90  |  Page 91  |  Page 92  |  Page 93  |  Page 94  |  Page 95  |  Page 96  |  Page 97  |  Page 98  |  Page 99  |  Page 100