LA CUINA
15 Kings Road, Cardiff. 029 2019 0265 /
lacuina.co.uk
What exactly constitutes tapas is one of the gastronomic conundrums of our day. Are they merely appetisers? Has the small plates fad muddied the waters more? At Cardiff’s “Catalan kitchen” La Cuina, they hedge their bets, categorising items at the top of the menu as “starters/tapas”. On our visit, that results in delivery-stage confusion: the member of our party who orders tapas receives them all at once, at the same time as the starters, and is left twiddling her thumbs as the rest of us tuck into our mains.
There’s no doubt over the identity of La Cuina’s star attraction: the sensational rosemary-infused mountain lamb, impossibly tender beneath a
crispy skin, atop roasted veg. Elsewhere around the table, the dish branded “simply duck” proves to be anything but plain, given the welcome zesty companionship of orange, grapefruit and pomegranate; a hefty steak is declared “bloody lovely” (pun intended); crunchy Cantharellus croquettes disappear in a flash; and, later, the salted chocolate ganache and trio of ice creams have the sweet-toothed among us singing.
If we’re being hypercritical, the slow-cooked potato wedges are a little too al dente and the portion of mille-feuille roasted potato could be more substantial. But, starter/tapas mix-up aside, the service is first class, and all things told, it’s obvious why La Cuina is the sort of local independent restaurant bustling with contented diners on a Saturday night.
BEN WOOLHEAD Kindle
HEANEY’S CARDIFF One of south Wales’ finest restaurants
5 of the best: Places to eat al fresco
has further embraced the al fresco idea. Heaney’s newly upgraded terrace area means you can sip some of their excellent cocktails or treat yourself to dinner as you watch Pontcanna life go by. The new outside menu will feature some of Tommy Heaney’s greatest hits, so expect oysters and that justifiably famous Marmite butter.
BARAVIN GOODSHEDS
1 Hood Road, Barry. Info:
goodshedsbarry.co.uk
Billing itself as “the first new sustainable urban high street in the UK”, Goodsheds is home to various independent retailers, businesses and charities – but it’s the eating options it offers that are really worth shouting about. First, though, there’s the need to navigate the online ordering process. The centralised system means you have to order from each outlet separately – fiddly if you want a smorgasbord of different dishes. Nevertheless, table service is both swift and efficient.
My shredded beef tacos from Bab Haus Mex, with pickled pink onions and a fresh, zingy dip – hit the spot, and yet are trumped by mutton rolls from Tukka Tuk: meaty, bronzed to perfection and
accompanied by lip-tingling chilli sauce. Tukka Tuk also contributes a marvellously rich beef rib curry, served with rice and crispy prawns, while a portion of Mr Croquewich’s dirty fries laced with parmesan, garlic and truffle mayo gets the whole table mmming in unison – and their parmesan- encrusted chicken burger seems to be designed to be worn as much as consumed. The youngest of our party somehow finds room for a cookies-and-cream cruffin from Friends In Knead, while the rest of us waddle over to Junction for coffees.
With Alium taking over the Pumphouse, James Sommerin’s The Shed in the Michelin Guide, and Goodsheds delivering both quality and variety, Barry is fast gaining a reputation for more than just fish and chips.
BEN WOOLHEAD
Fish and chips eaten in sea air is one of life’s great affordable pleasures. Add a view to savour and you’ll love one of Baravin’s outside tables. What could be better than tucking into a Moby Dick- sized cod and chips with the beach just yards away? For bonus points, visit at sunset when the Aberystwyth sky is striped like a mackerel belly. It’s breathtaking.
KINDLE At Cardiff’s Kindle, eating outside
isn’t an option: it’s your only choice. Chef Tom Powell, ex-Walnut Tree, cooks a fire-led menu in this distinctive venue on the edge of the city centre. The former Warden’s House is an eyecatching venue, and husband and wife team Phill and Deb Lewis work closely with local farmers and gardeners with a commitment to provenance and sustainability. Try hispi cabbage with jalapeno relish and peanuts, grilled Wye Valley asparagus and smoked egg, or lamb, meat and chips with chilli made from heart.
JOL’S FOOD TRUCK Jamie O’Leary has gone from being
Stephen Terry’s right hand man at the Hardwick to opening his own highly- rated restaurant in Merthyr. Now, in a change of pace, he brings his enviable skills to this food truck at Ogmore- By-Sea car park. This is ‘proper chef’ food: lobster thermidor rolls, the fish finger sandwich of your dreams, or the Triple JOL’s Burger, made with 18oz of Welsh beef.
PIZZATIPI
On the Riverside in Cardigan is where you’ll find this establishment. With glorious views from the courtyard, it’s a charming place to enjoy handmade pizzas, breads and desserts while you relax with Welsh craft beers and wine, and at friendly prices too.
JONATHAN SWAIN 41
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