TESTING PORE REFINING
Proving how an active
refines the appearance of pores
CutiFine CLR has been developed to address all of the important cell biological features that make pores more conspicuous. Harald van der Hoeven, CLR’s Head of Product Design and Development, explains how the company substantiated these claims
R
esults from a recent large study by Revieve Oy (Augmenting the Beauty Consumer Journey in 2023)
show that the number three skin concern for women is visibility of pores. The cosmetics industry seems to have been unable to supply the consumer with products which are effective enough to tackle this concern. Hence, there is a demand for active ingredients which can act at the core of those biological processes in the skin that lead to conspicuous pores.
There are two aspects to skin pores which determine their degree of conspicuousness and how much of a concern they become.
Large pores are more visible. The contrast between the colour of the pores and the surrounding skin is another important factor. Colour contrast related to pores can originate from different biological processes with different outcomes, but can all be of importance when providing an effective solution with a cosmetic active ingredient.
44 June 2023
An intelligent, holistic but goal- oriented approach is called for. However, a thorough understanding of the cell biological processes which lead to conspicuous pores is a prerequisite. People with oily skin are known to have pores which are more visible. Oiliness of skin is not just tangible, the skin also becomes shinier. The shininess of skin increases the colour contrast of the pores.
Elevated sebum production also leads to a weakened barrier function within the follicle. This leads to the initiation of inflammatory processes. These processes, in turn, can cause local redness in and around the pores. Another important factor in increasing the colour contrast of pores is protein carbonylation. Some lipids from sebum are oxidised, obtaining so-called reactive aldehyde compounds. These interact with the proteins (eg keratins) in the stratum corneum locally around the follicles. The resulting carbonylated keratins have a distinctly dark colour, making the pores more clearly noticeable.
Protein glycation also plays a role. For skin, the glycation process can have many outcomes. Two of them are relevant for pores: the glycation-related ‘browning’ reaction in the epidermis can play a role in colour contrast, as the pores might seem to become yellowish in colour. Yet glycation can also take place in the dermis. The dermal structure around the follicles provides the pores with structural support. A reduction in quality of the dermal structure takes place with age and can be caused by inflammatory processes. Glycation of dermal collagens plays a role in the reduction of structural support of the hair follicles deep inside the skin as well. Furthermore, oxidative processes can induce dermal destruction. A last feature encompasses hyperproliferation of the keratinocytes of the hair follicle. Inflammatory processes can induce a strong increase in the proliferative capacity of the epidermal keratinocytes on the inside of the hair follicles. Hyperproliferation of these keratinocytes will increase the surface area of the pore.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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