PACKAGING REFILLABLE EYESHADOWS
the design featuring a system of magnetic pans, which removable formulas are inserted into.
The pans can be easily taken out of their casing thanks to a thin metal rod, which Texen inserted via a tiny perforation on the back of the box. This is said to be ideal for brands looking to offer a customisable palette as it could be sold with product refills for consumers to mix and match, allowing consumers to buy an empty palette and choose their desired products or shades, online or in-store. It is available in both virgin and recycled materials, including organic PET derived from sugar cane waste, which is made up of recycled waste (20%) and PET virgin plastic (80%) that is said to significantly reduce the use of fossil fuels, according to Texen. The material is also said to overcome technical constraints associated with the transformation phase and allow for better rendering of delicate colours compared with rPET and other recycled materials.
The palettes are suitable for a variety of decorations including silk screen printing, hot stamping and digital printing, while the mirror and pressed powders inside can also be customised with brand logos or motifs.
AN EYE FOR LUXURY While some brands are recently exploring the format, luxury Danish beauty brand Kjaer Weis has been built on refillable principles since its 2010 launch.
The brand’s founder, make-up artist Kirsten Kjaer Weis, was inspired to create the brand after “seeing the sheer amount of waste that was happening in the beauty industry”, a representative for the brand tells Cosmetics Business. Also key for Kjaer Weis is to offer packaging “that resonates with [its] target audience, because Kjaer Weis is a luxury make-up brand and it also has design as one of its core pillars.” Kjaer Weis worked with packaging designer Marc Atlan – who has created luxury packaging for the likes of Prada, YSL and Dior – to design its Iconic Edition compacts, which are made from zamac and used across its portfolio. “The concept behind it was like a luxury keepsake,” explains the brand, “that you would keep forever and refill it again and again. “And it wouldn’t tarnish over time, and you wouldn’t get bored of it, because it was designed to be sort of
32 June 2023
Albéa’s rechargable palette (above) is said to reduce carbon footprint by 50% after four refills, compared with a traditional eyeshadow palette
timeless, in that you would keep it and it would stay relevant.” Kjaer Weis’ refillable offering includes its Build Your Own Beauty Kit, which allows customers to select their preferred shades of the brand’s Cream Foundation, Cream Blush, Cream Glow, Lip Tint and two shades of eyeshadow. Kjaer Weis now also offers its refillable Red Edition compact, which is made from paper and comes at a lower price point. “We recognise that might be a price point barrier for some people who want to try the brand before they buy, and who don’t just want a refill knocking around in their make-up bag.” With the Red Edition, the brand aims to offer “a lightweight and compostable [palette], recyclable, made from recycled paper that you can refill a couple of times, and that allows you… to see the products before you decide if you want to commit to an Iconic case.” Targeting a similar luxury positioning is Unilever-owned make-up brand Hourglass, which offers its Curator refill palettes that customers can personalise via the brand’s website from its collection of 40 shades. Available in one-pan, three-pan and five-pan variants, the gold-finished palettes have been crafted from tin and post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic in an effort to reduce virgin plastic use, according to the brand.
Consumers can insert shades by applying pressure to the top and bottom of the eyeshadow pan, and remove them by pressing the top edge of the eyeshadow in a downward motion and tilting upwards.
The palettes are said to reduce waste by one plastic bottle per one-pan palette, two and a half bottles per three- pan palette, and five bottles per five-pan palette, according to the brand. For brands looking to tap into this market with an emphasis on sleek, elegant yet eco-friendly packaging, Groupe Pochet offers its refillable
Essentiel compact, designed to be ultra- thin and light with pans that are refillable with a simple gesture. Made from recycled PET, the case is available with or without magnets and can be adapted according to brands’ needs. The company’s Slim Compact, meanwhile, is a refillable and recyclable aluminium compact with a removable paper tray, said to be ideal for eyeshadows.
A BRIGHT-EYED FUTURE Consumer appetite for refillable eyeshadows seems set to flourish, as both luxury and mass brands embrace the format.
“The transition to refillable
eyeshadow palettes has started and we are convinced that they will establish in the coming years,” says Albéa’s Boroni. In addition to growing consumer demand, HCP’s Rowntree also highlights the forthcoming Packaging and Packaging Waste Directive (PPWD), which states that all packaging placed on the EU market must be recyclable by 2030, as a key consideration for brands. “Refillable eyeshadows are one of the best suited product categories for refillable systems,” she adds, “as… consumers will likely use up a small pan of product quicker than a larger pressed powder, for example, serving the refillable purpose of the packaging well. “But most importantly, brands need to educate consumers as to the value of embracing a refill routine and optimise engagement with brand loyalty programmes.” However, making the transition to refillable eyeshadows will doubtless present new challenges for brands and manufacturers to overcome. “I think there are many challenges as well as opportunities that need to be considered,” says Boroni. “We must provide brands with a variety of options, both for the luxury and masstige brands to address all [consumer] needs.” Indeed, “what Kjaer Weis is trying to do is show you that refillable packaging doesn’t have to be boring or plain,” the brand emphasises.
“I think it can be a luxury that you invest into, and then keep forever, because what we also want to make sure is that people are not buying… into anything that lasts them a few refills, and then it’s just gonna be thrown away and won’t biodegrade or anything. “The focus for us will be longevity and luxury”
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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