INGREDIENTS AFTERSUN


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t is widely known that the best defence against the sun is to ‘slip, slap, slop’ on a t-shirt, a sun hat and sunscreen, respectively. This mantra has been made all the more convenient via efforts by the cosmetics industry to develop sun protection that is not just effective, but easy to apply and with a pleasant look and skin feel. Additionally, the ‘skinification’ of make-up has seen SPF make its way into many of our everyday essentials. But what about those times you get caught out – when your eyes flutter open after a 60-minute nap by the pool, or when your barbeque lunch turns into an all-afternoon affair? What are the damages that can be sustained both immediately from such events and as the result of longer term exposure? “UVA and UVB damage the DNA in skin cells, producing genetic defects, or mutations, that can lead to skin cancer, exacerbate melasma and pigmentation issues, as well as cause premature ageing,” says Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon, facial aesthetics doctor and founder of the MZ Skin brand.


DON’T FEEL THE BURN For those suffering from sunburn, Zamani’s advice is to stay in the shade or indoors to avoid further exposure. “To reduce inflammation and inject moisture back into your skin, run yourself a cool or lukewarm oatmeal bath; cucumbers are also antioxidants that can help soothe the skin. “Use an aftersun product or lotion containing aloe vera to calm and moisturise the skin,” she adds. As well as aloe vera, Zamani also recommends soy, yoghurt, milk and essential oils, such as lavender, for their soothing effect on sunburned skin. “Additionally, vitamin E can help reduce inflammation caused by sunburn along with [ointment brand] Aquaphor to help aid the healing process.”


INGREDIENTS FOR AFTERSUN


Specialty ingredients


companies also offer a wealth of solutions for products to soothe the painful aftermath of sun exposure.


Camille Despériez, Marketing Project Leader at Silab, notes


Lucas Meyer’s Canadian Willowherb reduces skin redness


16 June 2023


that, while aftersun has long been reduced to a moisturising solution, the category “could take on a less basic dimension in the future – indeed, just like the body care category, it is strongly conceivable that aftersun care will tend towards a more premium and sophisticated offer”.


When it comes to soothing active ingredients to use after sunburn, Silab’s roster includes Calmiskin, which provides immediate relief by stimulating the production of the ‘pleasure hormones’ beta-endorphins. It is rich in mint leaf polyphenols, meaning it provides a wave of freshness and significantly reduces tingling sensations and skin discomfort.


Rival Sederma specifically recommends Pacifeel from its wide portfolio of anti-inflammatory and repairing ingredients. A plant-based active ingredient that addresses both the signs and causes of sensitive and reactive skin, Pacifeel alleviates skin discomfort and visibly fades redness. Clinical test results showed volunteers perceived an overall feeling of wellbeing, along with visible signs of improvement; itching and stinging sensations were reduced by 80% and 86% respectively. To cool down the skin temperature of sunburned skin, Lucas Meyer recommends its gelling agent Lecigel, which has proven efficacy in reducing the skin temperature and has a cooling effect on the skin. It also offers soothing active ingredients to reduce erythema and irritation in as little as 30 minutes. These include Abyssine, a biotech- derived exopolysaccharide from an extremophile living in deep sea hydrothermal vents, which strengthens the skin’s natural defence through a biomimetic mechanism. Canadian Willowherb reduces skin redness induced by UV exposure, while Neutrazen, a neurocosmetic, is designed to prevent and reverse signs of neurogenic inflammation like redness and swelling. Lucas Meyer’s MelinOil, meanwhile, is a liposoluble form of an α-MSH biomimetic peptide designed to stimulate the skin’s inherent sun defence system. It helps better protect cells from UV damage and premature ageing. Also available is its Tazman Pepper ingredient to instantly soothe itching and burning. The anti- inflammatory agent soothes


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and calms reactive skin by inhibiting the TRPV1 channel to decrease inflammatory markers. Laboratoires Expanscience’s portfolio likewise features products claimed to be ideal for soothing sunburned skin. Soline Bio provides an immediate increase in moisturisation, up 48.6% just one hour after application, and reduces the dryness, roughness and desquamation of the skin; it also modulates the inflammatory cascade. Its Algaenia is described as a soothing cocoon for the skin, protecting against inflammatory episodes even at maximum erythema intensity. The ingredient inhibits cytokines IL-1α and IL-8, and rebalances the IL-1RA/IL-1α ratio to protect sensitive skins from inflammation, encourage dermal homeostasis and limit redness. A third Expanscience offering, Passioline, repairs, regenerates and soothes to improve the healing process. It stimulates key markers at the three levels – dermis, DEJ and epidermis – involved in skin repair mechanisms. Gattefossé recently launched a new plant-based oil-in-water (o/w) emulsifier called Emulium Dermolea MB, which reduces skin stress and brings long term soothing effects thanks to its unique lipidic composition rich in sterols and triterpenes. The terpenes found in this emulsifier, lupeol and β-sitosterol, are known for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. To minimise the damages of sun exposure and to create soothing formulations Rahn’s line-up includes Celligent, which provides powerful antioxidative activity in skin, based on ethyl ferulate and carnosic acid. By effectively blocking radicals formation, Celligent prevents lipid peroxidation and DNA-damage. It protects against UV and HEV-induced radical formation to ensure DNA-repair mechanisms are supported and stem cells are protected. Also from Rahn is Radicare-Gold, which contains a specially-balanced blend of beta-carotene and lutein carotenoids combined with tocopherol, naturally present in the extract of the freshwater algae Tetradesmus obliquus, to provide a natural shield against radiation such as WiFi and blue HEV light. Defensil- Soft, meanwhile, contains an extract obtained from Albatrellus confluens and acts as neuro-soother by extending the feel-good zone of stressed and irritated skin. It reduces the perception of the stinging and burning effects that occur in association with sunburn.


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