AFTERSUN INGREDIENTS


meanwhile, targets the prevention of chrono- and photoageing. It stimulates the expression and limits enzymatic degradation of the macromolecules of the dermis as the skin ages.


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UV exposure accounts for the majority of visible signs of ageing


For skin aggravated by the sun, BASF recommends its Hydrasensyl Glucan Green. Among other benefits, its beta-glucans possess antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and


immunomodulation properties; they are also highly efficient moisturisers.


ADDRESSING LONG TERM DAMAGES


Beyond the immediate discomfort of erythema, too much time spent in the sun is a recipe for premature ageing. Zamani confirms: “UV exposure accounts for the majority of visible signs of ageing [like] wrinkles, fine lines, pigmentation and saggy skin.” Here, as well, there are strong options available for manufacturers looking to address these visible signs.


“The most commonly used treatments for melasma are skin lightening medications applied topically,” Zamani adds. “Over-the-counter ingredients that can help lighten skin include arbutin, azelaic acid, glutathione, kojic acid, mandelic acid and niacinamide.” Expanscience’s portfolio includes Hierogaline, a combination of antioxidant and anti-radical molecules which protects the skin against external aggressions. It is said to provide curative and preventive action as regards the damaging effects of UV rays on fibroblasts. Its Actimp Powder Bio,


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Another ingredient claimed to be ideal for photoageing is IBR-Solage from Lucas Meyer, which biomimics the pink alga Dunaliella salina’s adaptation to solar stress, delivering a novel multifunctional cosmetic strategy to fight ‘glyc-ageing’. It reduces the glycation of the skin, improves skin elasticity, reduces skin roughness and prevents the appearance of wrinkles and UV spots. The supplier’s Elix-IR is said to be the first botanical active ingredient designed to fight ‘infra- ageing’ (the term for infrared (IR)- induced skin ageing), which is responsible for loss of firmness and elasticity leading to premature appearance of wrinkles. Through its inhibitory action on the cathepsin G enzyme, Elix-IR reduces IR, UV and heat-induced matrix metalloproteinases’ (MMPs) production and fibre degradation.


Solastemis is provided by Gattefossé and protects the DNA of keratinocytes from lesions induced by UVA radiation. It also boosts endogenous DNA repair capacity to preserve the stem cells of the epidermis. Solastemis offers a shield for the extracellular matrix (ECM) by protecting key proteins from degradation induced by solar exposure. Photoageing-associated symptoms are visibly corrected versus placebo. Sederma’s new ingredient launch, Mel[o]stem, ensures the proper protective function of the melanocyte, limiting the appearance of skin pigmentary defects. It is the first active ingredient to address both dark (solar lentigo) and white pigment disorders, known as ‘white freckles’ for an even complexion; both pigment disorders are caused by sun damage to the melanocyte and its microenvironment. While the messaging around blue light tends to focus on digital pollution, it is also a component of sunlight. Sederma’s Synchrolife is a peptide-based active ingredient that has been demonstrated to rebalance the production of circadian key players after blue light stress to ensure a better repairing metabolism. Silab likewise addresses blue light damage via its Oxygeskin. Blue light penetrates more deeply than UV and causes the oxidation of the constituents of the layers of the skin, as well as the destruction of its antioxidant capacities.


Oxygeskin improves the quality of the skin barrier and dermis damaged by blue light by reactivating cellular oxygenation mechanisms and by limiting the appearance of free radicals. Rich in peptides from cotton seeds,


Silab’s Heliomoduline is a powerful natural active ingredient which stimulates the natural repair mechanisms of skin cells and reduces the senescence of human fibroblasts after UVA and UVB stress, reducing the premature ageing of photo-exposed skin. Also available from Silab is Erisium, which guards skin cells’ protein homeostasis. Derived from a co-product of rice, it significantly reduces inflammaging and restores the matrix dynamics.


BASF recommends several ingredients in its line-up to address photoageing. Ciste’M is rich in myricetin derivatives, extracted from the leaves of the Mediterranean rockrose; it helps to decrease free radical formation and the release of MMPs, while inhibiting inflammation pathways and stimulating DNA and dermal repair mechanisms. Its Arganyl, meanwhile, takes advantage of the flavonoids contained in the leaves of the argan tree to limit the activity of enzymes such as MMPs that are released in the skin after sun exposure. Working on aquaporins – which play a role as cellular water channels in skin hydration – Hydagen Aquaporin addresses the blue light-induced downregulation of the aquaporin-3 protein synthesis by 78%.


THE THERAPEUTIC APPROACH Those struggling with the aftermath of excessive sun exposure can be assured of best results via a combination of skin care and in-office treatments, according to Zamani.


“For in-clinic treatments to treat pigmentation, laser and light treatments can be used to help prevent worsening of pigmentation or rebound


pigmentation,” she explains, additionally recommending microneedling and tranexamic acid to improve epidermal melasma by creating a small micro- injury that triggers the body’s own healing process.


“Peels, lasers and needling can be done, but only in combination with at home skin products that can help reduce pigmentation and promote collagen production,” she adds. “The approach to UV-induced skin damage is multifaceted and requires consistent and long term diligence”


June 2023 17


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