PACKAGING REFILLABLE EYESHADOWS
A REFINED PALETTE
Refillable eyeshadow palettes are boosting brands’ eco credentials and luxury positioning, as Austyn King discovers
up consumers’ make-up bags. In the UK, sales of refillable prestige beauty products soared by 47% to £34m from January to July of last year – more than double those of the total prestige beauty market, up 22% in the same period, according to market researcher the NPD Group. Meanwhile, data from luxury retailer Fenwick found that Google searches for ‘refillable beauty’ had increased 59% over the last year. While refillables are gaining traction across fragrance and skin care, make-up is leading the charge: sales of refillable make-up shot up by 364% in the period from January to the end of July 2022, compared with the year prior, in contrast to the overall make-up market which saw a 30% year-on-year growth. “As many beauty consumers are striving to make more environmentally conscious purchasing choices, refillable packaging offers a ‘reduce’ scheme as the outer packaging is used again and again, meaning less packaging ends up in landfill,” Stephanie Rowntree, Product Manager at HCP Packaging, tells Cosmetics Business. It is little wonder, then, that high end make-up brands are increasingly jumping on the trend, with the likes of Charlotte Tilbury, Chantecaille, Victoria Beckham Beauty and Rose Inc just some of the brands offering refillable cosmetics among their line-up. Lip products are currently the star performer, making up more than half of make-up refill sales, followed by bronzer and blush – however, now
A 30 June 2023
s brands continue to seek more eco-friendly beauty solutions, refillable
cosmetics are quickly filling
coming to the fore are refillable reinventions of the classic beauty staple, the eyeshadow palette. Despite their ubiquity across cosmetics lines, eyeshadow palettes have often not been the most sustainable of products, often using a lot of plastic – not to mention the shades that are simply tossed when the users’ preferred hues are used up – but brands are on a mission to change this. Alongside their eco-friendly benefits, refillable eyeshadow palettes also offer opportunities to tap into the customisation and personalisation trends, as well as establishing a brand’s luxury positioning.
“For larger eyeshadow palettes especially, a refillable format also enables consumers to get creative and ‘curate’ their selection of colours to suit their beauty look,” adds Rowntree. “Consumers can replace the individual shades as and when they are each used up – meaning less wasted product.” This ‘mix and match’ approach allows consumers to choose their preferred shades and top up the eyeshadow pan when they’re done, providing both a better customer experience and minimising brands’ beauty waste. So how can brands deliver a refillable eyeshadow palette that looks good while standing the test of time?
TOP DRAWER TOP-UPS
“When it comes to refillable packaging, the major consideration is to develop a simple and intuitive system to help the consumer adopt a new gesture in their daily habits,” Laura Boroni, Market Manager, Colour Cosmetic Dip-in & Compact at Albéa Cosmetics &
Fragrance, tells Cosmetics Business. To create this, manufacturers have a variety of options to make their palettes refillable, for example: “A magnetic strip can be added to the compact well, a hole can be integrated in the base to push the pan out, a cage insert can be constructed to hold the pan in, or the palette can be designed with a removable base plate replace pan,” explains HCP’s Rowntree. However, Rowntree observes that many refill compacts “feature fiddly, fragile frames, which may not be robust enough for long term durability”. For brands looking to enhance their refill experience, HCP offers its Fusion Rectangular Matrix Quad Kit, a four-pan palette said to feature a unique mechanism designed for refilling, replacing or mixing and matching eyeshadows.
Recently added to the brand’s offering, meanwhile, is its Dial compact, suitable for a variety of pressed powder products including eyeshadow, which features a ‘twist to refill’ gesture that HCP claims is a first in the market. Designed with easy disassembly and refill in mind, it seeks to make the process accessible for consumers with moderate motor disabilities and is said to be robust, secure and ergonomic. The dial is said to be easy to grip with the fingertip, or for consumers with limited grip strength, the compact can be placed flat on the palm and rotated to easily remove the refillable base, according to HCP.
It features snap-together integral hinges with an ergonomically proven base design that holds the pan in place without the use of glue.
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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