HOW TO BOTOX-LIKE CREAM
In the personal care industry, the materials we call ‘peptides’ are short chain amino acids – very small substances – that are able to traverse to the stratum basale and signal physiological changes at the dermal level.
Acetyl hexapeptide-8 is one of the most popular peptides with Botox-like action: it effectively inhibits muscular contractions to stop the appearance of wrinkles. It is a ‘mimic’ peptide which binds in place of the SNAP-25 peptide complex normally produced by the body to prohibit muscular contractions. This results in less facial expressions and less wrinkles. Acetyl octapeptide-3 is another material with similar activity. When looking for Botox-like actives, check with your supplier and look for these INCI names to make sure you are using the right peptides to get the desired results. One of the biggest challenges a cosmetic chemist always faces is formulating a cosmetic to ensure delivery of an active to the required site. Delivery is especially important with these Botox-like peptides – they are extremely small but need to travel a comparably huge distance through the epidermis.
MAKE A BOTOX-LIKE FACE CREAM
How to...
Want to make a topical product to rival the anti-wrinkle effects of injectables? Here’s how
Belinda Carli, Director/Cosmetic Chemist, Institute of Personal Care Science
It is well known just how effective Botox injections are at reducing muscle contractions and the wrinkles that causes.
But due to the expense, risks and pain associated with the injections, it’s little wonder that Botox-like creams are a popular alternative. But just how do the actives in these creams work and how do they get used in formulas?
This article will explore the science of the peptides making Botox-like creams possible, and how they enable companies to offer customers cosmetic products with big results from tiny molecules.
38 June 2023
Peptides, short chain amino acids, provide a Botox-like activity in topical formulations
Once they are ‘delivered’ to the stratum basale, their ability to travel into the dermis and make a difference is certain – but getting them there is the hard part. To provide the required activity, peptides must be provided to the skin in a suitable carrier base to reach the stratum basale target site, best achieved by formulating them into an emulsion (amphiphilic) base combined with humectant agents and/or liposomal delivery agents. Different materials from different suppliers will come as different concentrations of the Botox-like peptide. You will need to check with the specific supplier you are working with and review their efficacy data to determine the required input for their material.
Most of these peptides are only needed in tiny amounts – as small as 77mcg in some cases – but usually come dispersed in a glycol solvent as low as 450ppm. This means you may need to use anywhere between 3-10% w/w in your final formula to get the required amount in each application of finished product.
When putting your Botox-like formula together, follow these rules: • Review clinical efficacy data to determine the best input amount specific to the material you have selected;
• Use an emulsion base with humectants present, making sure the sensory aspects of your emollients suit your target market and perceived fast absorption;
• Observe any compatibility requirements when putting the cosmetic formula together;
• Enhance delivery where possible using clever cosmetic formulation techniques. When you get the right amount of your Botox- like active to the deeper layers of the epidermis, you’ll always get great results
cosmeticsbusiness.com
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