OAXACA
with a good amount of smoke and a touch of bitterness, it’s topped with brunoise enchilado de monte mushrooms, giving it additional heft and texture. Plated alongside it is mole verde, which stands in contrast as a bright, herbaceous, acidic dish with slick ribbons of pan de indio mushrooms throughout. As Thalia says, “it tastes of the countryside”.
A sacred act The following afternoon, curious to try the famed seven moles served alongside each other, I make my way past bustling Zócalo plaza in search of Restaurante Coronita. Here, around a heavily lacquered mahogany table, is strung fuchsia, indigo and lime-green papel picado (traditional perforated paper bunting). The waitress assures me that, yes, the mole fl ight is fi lling, and when the seven red clay bowls arrive on a single platter, each dotted with shredded chicken or pork, any doubts are assuaged. She recommends I begin with the chichilo,
amarillo and verde, before moving on to the manchamantel, almendrado, coloradito and negro. The almendrado is my favourite, its Moorish infl uence apparent in the sweetness of raisins, the delicate fruitiness of almonds, and the hunks of briny Manzanilla olives. In popular food culture, mole is a culinary
Degustación de Mole, served at Coronita, offers guests a
chance to try seven different versions of the sauce
embodiment of mestizaje, the narrative pushed by post-Mexican revolution nation- building elites in the early 1900s, which emphasised the diverse roots of Mexicans as a point of unity, while downplaying individual racial and ethnic identities. Mestizaje propagated the idea that all Mexicans were the same, a single race and national identity, despite the rampant racism and classism that continues to this day. Mole — with its Indigenous and European origins — became the dish to embody a blended, united Mexico. On the ground in Oaxaca, however, it’s
more emblematic of the Oaxacan penchant for celebration. “Mole is a special occasion,” says Jorge. There’s a diff erent type of mole for every event — and its preparation can span days.
Flavours of Oaxaca
MEZCAL This agave spirit has roots that go back millennia in Oaxaca, which is the largest producer in Mexico. While you’ll find plenty of cocktails made with mezcal, arguably the best way to experience it is the traditional way — neat.
QUESILLO Referred to as ‘queso Oaxaca’ outside of the state, quesillo is a chewy, salty, stringy cheese that tops just about everything in Oaxaca. Visitors can head to Reyes Etla, just outside the city, to make it fresh and learn all about its fascinating backstory.
TEJATE Known as ‘the drink of the gods’, tejate is an ancestral beverage made from corn, cacao and mamey seeds. Culturally and historically significant for the Zapotec people, tejate is still used ceremonially today. But visitors can also find it for sale at stands in the city.
TLAYUDA Nicknamed ‘Mexican pizza’, the tlayuda is a large, chewy, crispy tortilla, warmed on a comal and brushed with pork lard, then topped with a smear of black beans, shredded lettuce, cured meat and quesillo. Tlayudas El Negro serves one of the best.
NIEVE An Oaxacan sorbet, nieve is available at street stands, but head to La Soledad plaza to try some of the city’s longest- standing establishments. Standout options include the leche quemada con tuna, or burnt milk with prickly pear, an iconic local flavour.
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
85
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132
