ON LOCATION HEBDEN BRIDGE
Craft beer, coffee and modern Italian cuisine are all on the menu in this artsy Yorkshire town
WORDS: CAROL INE MORRI SH. I L LU S T R AT ION: TANYA COOP E R
For a small town, Hebden Bridge has long punched above its weight. Situated in the Pennines, halfway between Manchester and Leeds, it was a centre for fabric production and trade in the 19th century. More recently, though, it’s become a haven for artists and designers, who have leant the place a creative spirit and scene of its own. Among the independent shops and galleries are a number of food and drink spots that are sure to keep hunger at bay as you explore. Start the day Moi Outside (
moi-outside.com),
on Albert Street. Run by two cycling and outdoor enthusiasts, the cafe was set up as a space for like-minded locals. Leeds-roasted North Star coffee is served from behind the plywood counter, along with croissants and cakes, and there’s a selection of outdoor wear to peruse as you pick up your breakfast goods. The team are also currently trialling a supper club. A short walk up nearby Crown Street will take you
past a bakery, a wine shop, a florist and a butcher’s and eventually lead you to Hebden Bridge Open Market. It operates four days a week, with Thursdays focused on fresh produce and retail; Fridays secondhand goods; Saturdays arts, crafts and artisan products; and Sundays local produce. On neighbouring Carlton Street, you’ll find Goo
Cheese (
goo-cheese.co.uk), which specialises in locally made varieties, as well as a selection from across Europe. Everything is sourced by passionate owner Andrew Hartley, who’s happy to tell the story behind each cheese. Buy a wedge of creamy, tangy Ribblesdale Blue — produced in the Yorkshire Dales — to take home, or order a cheeseboard to enjoy at a table in the store.
For more regional specialities, head to Hebden
institution Valley Organics (
valleyorganics.coop). This workers’ cooperative sells top-drawer organic fruit and veg and ethically produced products. A few doors down is another local stalwart, Saker Wholefood Bakery (
instagram.com/ sakerwholefoodbakery), which has been turning out vegetarian and vegan baked goods for over 25 years. Choose from a classic sourdough or one of the flavoured versions, such as carrot and turmeric — and grab a slab of homemade crumble, too. A wander along the pretty Rochdale Canal, which
bisects the town, is a good way to work up an appetite for dinner at Vocation & Co (
vocationbrewery.com). Opened by Hebden Bridge-based Vocation Brewery, this beer hall has about 20 brews on tap. The kitchen is run by Slap and Pickle, which turns out excellent smash burgers made with 40-day dry-aged Swaledale beef, as well as loaded fries and sharing platters. For high-end dining, try Kitchen 91 (kitchen91.
co.uk). This pared-back, modern Italian restaurant started as a supper club, run from the home of owners Poppy Cartwright and Matthew Shelton, before moving to Market Street. “We wanted the experience to feel intimate, the same as eating at our house,” says Poppy, who not only makes the food but also crafted the chic crockery, curtains and artwork on the walls. Book a table for the weekend to enjoy the five-course set menu, where handmade pasta — including a slow-cooked ragu — is the standout.
HOW TO DO IT: Trains run to Hebden Bridge from Leeds (45 mins) and Manchester (30 mins). Hebden Townhouse has doubles from £135, including breakfast.
hebdentownhouse.co.uk
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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
IMAGE: CHARLIE CROWLEY/
OURKINDRED.CO.UK
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