IMAGES: GETTY; DAN JONES; STOCKFOOD
THAILAND
traditionally involves mixing brisket with soy sauce, coriander root, white pepper and oyster sauce before grilling over charcoal. It’s served with a spicy dipping sauce of ground toasted rice, chilli powder, fish sauce and lime juice. WHERE TO FIND IT: It’s often the case that no frills venues serve the best food, and Mae Suk Isaan Restaurant Lap Koi is a great example, renowned for serving the best weeping tiger steak in the area. Thanon Mittraphap, Nai Mueang, Mueang Khon Kaen
Weeping tiger steak This dish of griddled beef with a spicy dipping sauce — also known as crying tiger or tiger’s tears — goes very well with Thai whisky. Toasted rice can be found at many Asian supermarkets. SERVES: 2 TAKES: 10 MINS, PLUS 1 HR MARINATING
INGREDIENTS 1 tsp soy sauce 1 coriander root, finely chopped 1 tsp ground white pepper 1 tsp oyster sauce 200g beef steak
FOR THE DIPPING SAUCE 2 tbsp Thai fish sauce 3 tbsp lime juice 1 small shallot, finely chopped 1 tsp toasted rice 1 tsp chilli powder 1 tsp coriander leaves, finely chopped
METHOD Mix the soy sauce, coriander
root, white pepper and oyster sauce in a bowl. Add the beef and mix well. Put in the fridge to marinate for 1 hr. Meanwhile, put all the
ingredients for the dipping sauce into a bowl and mix well. Transfer to a serving bowl. Heat a griddle pan until very
hot. Add the beef and grill for around 2–3 mins, turning once, until cooked to your liking. Slice and serve the beef with the dipping sauce. Taken from Rosa’s Thai Cafe: The Cookbook by Saiphin Moore (£22, Mitchell Beazley)
Gaeng om gai The ‘gai’ in this dish’s name refers to chicken, while gaeng om is an Isaan-style curry with no coconut milk and an uncharacteristically simple curry paste consisting of only three ingredients: chillies, lemongrass and shallots. Garnish with lemon basil, dill and a splash of pla ra sauce, and you have the perfect umami finish. It’s a lesser-known Isaan dish but packed full of regional greens such as pak kayang, which has notes of lemon and cumin; pak krad, with its bittersweet flavour and slight tingling sensation; and pak tew, the young leaves of which are smooth and sour. WHERE TO FIND IT: Jae Daeng Gaeng Om is situated in the owner’s garden, where they craft various styles of Gang Om and bring their homegrown vegetables to the table. 811 Soi Amnat Charoen 2, Bung, Mueang Amnat Charoen
Soop naw mai Bamboo shoots are very easy to find in this region, and they have a long shelf life once they’re steamed, shredded and refrigerated, which is why this bamboo salad is a local favourite. ‘Soop’ in the northeastern dialect means ‘to mix together’ and this dish is typically served alongside som tam, gai yang and sticky rice. WHERE TO FIND IT: Despite soop naw mai being a household name, it doesn’t often make it onto restaurant menus — but most Isaan establishments will put it together for you on request. Han Laab Ai Tong in Khon Kaen is one of the best in the region for perfecting everything on its menu. Thanon Mittraphap, Nai Mueang, Mueang Khon Kaen
Jaew Thai people can’t get enough of chilli relishes, and aubergine jaew is the top pick for northeasterners. It’s made by roasting long Thai aubergines with garlic and shallots; the soft flesh is then pounded up with a pinch of salt — and the secret ingredient is, of course, pla ra. It’s served as a dip with pork scratchings, boiled egg and boiled vegetables. WHERE TO FIND IT: Jaew is often bought in jars, and there are plenty to choose from at stores across the region. Ue Kia Hiang is a little shop selling souvenirs — and jars of quality jaew — in Khon Kaen. 164-8 Sri Chant Road, Nai Mueang, Mueang Khon Kaen
From left: Fresh som tam, served with barbecued chicken, sticky rice and vegetables; each household has its own recipe for gai yang
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