CITY BREAK PRAGUE
Slow-roasted meats and fluffy dumplings are being reimagined by a new generation of Czech chefs
WORDS: SAMANTHA TAT RO
For decades, Czechs saw their cuisine in one light — hearty, simple food made to keep you full, with ingredients that could be bought (or grown) during trying times. Meals were made for big families gathered on Sundays — classics like cumin-roasted pork, wild rabbit or the creamy dill sauce, koprová omáčka, were never found in fine dining establishments. But now, you’ll see them plated on elegant crystal at the Michelin- starred La Degustation Bohême Bourgeoise, a restaurant that books out months in advance. Prague’s best places to eat draw upon the
many chefs, educated both here and abroad, who return to the city determined to rebrand their cuisine, combining traditional recipes and flavours with an emphasis on locally sourced produce and diverse techniques. At Výčep, chef Jiří Hrachový and his team sit at the forefront of modern Czech gastronomy, putting their own spin on classic pub food. Thick sauces and flavour-packed broths beautifully underscore its fish, venison and rabbit dishes. Meanwhile, the revamped Štangl uses innovative ways to highlight select ingredients and let them shine, making stars of raw materials like foraged mushrooms, roasted duck and buckwheat. Then there’s the Ze Mě project, a farm-to-table pop-up
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that often includes game meat and foraged ingredients, such as blueberries, mushrooms and edible flowers. And the recently opened Šodó bistro puts emphasis on seasonal produce to elevate dishes like yeasted buns in vanilla sauce and fruit-filled dumplings. Despite an abundance of spots
experimenting with regional cuisine in the capital, the city hasn’t lost its passion for casual, communal places to eat. The centrepiece of Prague’s food scene remains the traditional hospoda (pub) and pilsner. After all, beer is famously often cheaper than water here, and most days you’ll find locals gathered to grab a drink at Automat Matuška in Dejvice, Lokál U Bílé Kuželky with its tall glasses of Kozel beer, or at U Zlatého Tygra in the Old Town, where beer cheese dip is served alongside the brews. Tourists have long flocked to Prague for its
storied history and atmospheric cobblestone streets, lined with rows of pastel-coloured buildings. Considered by many to be one of the Europe’s most beautiful cities, until recently the Czech capital had never attracted food- focused travellers. Now, however, the city is evolving into a destination for those seeking a rich blend of history alongside a vibrant, experimental food scene.
Bridges over the Vltava River, seen from Letná Park
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