Lampang’s century-old train station Below from left: Bowls of khao soi at Khao Soi Samerjai in Chiang Mai; the
proprietor of Khanom Jeen Pa Bun Sri, on Lampang’s Thanon Talat Gao
Khao soi This creamy coconut curry contains tender chicken and a combination of chewy and crunchy noodles. You’ll end up with 3-4 servings of curry paste; it’ll keep in a lidded jar in the fridge for 1–2 weeks. SERVES: 2 TAKES: 45 MINS
INGREDIENTS 1 x 400g tin of coconut milk 4 chicken thighs, skinless but preferably bone-in
2–3 tbsp Thai fish sauce 2–3 tbsp palm sugar or brown sugar
500ml chicken stock or water
250g egg noodles, boiled per packet instructions
400–500ml vegetable oil 250g fresh egg noodles
FOR THE CURRY PASTE 10 large dried red chillies, sliced
2 tbsp shrimp paste
5 garlic cloves, chopped 5 baby shallots, finely sliced 1 tbsp finely sliced galangal 1 tbsp finely sliced lemongrass
1 tsp chopped kaffir lime zest
1 thumb-sized piece of fresh turmeric, finely sliced
TO SERVE pickled mustard greens, rinsed well and finely chopped
shallots, finely sliced coriander leaves dried chilli flakes Thai chilli sauce lime wedges
METHOD Pound all the curry paste ingredients in a pestle
and mortar, or pulse in a food processor, until you have a rough paste. Scoop 3 tbsp of the thick part of the coconut milk
into a saucepan and set over a high heat. When it starts bubbling, add 2-3 tbsp of the curry paste. Mix well and, once the oil begins to separate from the coconut milk and curry paste, add the chicken and the remaining coconut milk. Mix well and let it simmer for around 15 mins. Season with the fish sauce and sugar, then add the
chicken stock or water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a low simmer. Cover and simmer until the chicken is cooked through and tender, around 30 mins. Taste and season the curry with fish sauce, salt and more sugar if needed. For the deep-fried noodles, pour the oil into a
wok or small, deep saucepan (make sure it comes no more than two-thirds of the way up) and set over a medium heat. Line a plate with kitchen paper. When the oil is hot, add a handful of the fresh egg noodles and deep-fry for 2-3 mins until golden brown. Transfer to the lined plate and repeat with the remaining noodles. Set aside. Ladle the chicken and curry sauce over the
boiled noodles, then add the deep-fried noodles. Top with your desired quantities of the pickled mustard greens, shallots, coriander and dried chilli flakes. Serve with the lime wedges and Thai sweet chilli sauce. Taken from Thai Made Easy, by Yui Miles (£22,Quadrille)
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
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