STARTERS
WINE S BRAZIL & BEYOND
The lesser-known South American wine-producing nations of Uruguay, Brazil and Peru are springing some pleasant surprises. Words: Fiona Beckett
While grapes have been grown in Brazil for centuries, wine production is a comparatively recent phenomenon. In fact, only a small percentage of the adult population drink wine — and most of that is sweet ‘jug’ wine made from table grapes. Yet, for all this, the country’s producers are making some interesting wines well worth discovering. While much of Brazil is tropical in climate,
so unsuitable for growing grapes, it’s a vast country with many terroirs. Most wine is produced down in the cooler south, although there are some examples of winter wines — those that are tricked by the application of phytohormones into bearing fruit in July and August when it’s drier and cooler than in the Southern Hemisphere summer of January and February. Guaspari’s Vale de Pedro Shiraz (£26.99, from Go Brazil) is a good example. Brazil’s calling card, though, is sparkling wine, which accounts for around half of its
production. In fact, the country is home to the New World’s first dedicated sparkling wine appellation, Altos de Pinto Bandeira, which was recognised in 2022. Some of these wines are made in the style of prosecco, but there are also those from producers such as Família Geisse (see below) that use both champagne grapes and the champagne method. Beyond fizz, Brazil favours the production of red over white, although rosé, of which they don’t make a great deal, is actually better suited to spicy, African-influenced Brazilian cuisine. Uruguay to the south is cooler with more of
a coastal influence. Although it’s smaller, it has some dazzlingly impressive wineries plus its own wine route, Los Caminos del Vino. The country has already made a name for itself with its take on albariño and tannat, but reds like cabernet franc also do well here. “What I love most about Uruguayan wine is that almost all of the wineries are family
owned and there’s an individual personality to many of the wines,” explains Amanda Barnes, author of The South America Wine Guide. “It’s as though they’re family recipes handed down from generation to generation.” Over on the Pacific side of the continent,
Peru has actually been producing wine longer than any country in South America, with vineyards dating back to 1539. Yet the industry is tiny, with around 80% of grapes destined for pisco production. And, while the likes of sauvignon blanc and chardonnay have worked well here, it’s the country’s indigenous grape varieties that could be the passport to international recognition, according to wine critic Tim Atkin, who drew up a ranking of Peru’s top wines last year. Of course, what these countries really have
going for them is that they’re great destinations for those travellers who are as eager to explore the local wine as much as the food.
F IVE TO TRY
Família Geisse Cave Amadeu Rosé Brut 2021 An elegant, traditional- method, pinot noir-based sparkling wine from one of Brazil’s top fizz producers, Mario Geisse. With its delicate red-berry fruit, it makes the perfect aperitif in spring or early summer. £19.99.
gobrazilwines.com
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Garzón Reserve Albariño 2022/23 Albariño thrives on the coast, and this is produced by one of the best-known Uruguayan wineries, whose vineyards are just 10 miles from the Atlantic. Fruitier in style than the typical Spanish version but equally good with seafood. Price on request.
libertywines.co.uk
NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
Pisano Progreso Tannat Reserve 2022 If Albariño is Uruguay’s signature white wine, tannat is its red. Although this is a lighter, juicier version than is typical of this grape, it’s got a lot to offer. A cheery wine at an affordable price that would go well with pizza or at a barbecue. £9.95.
thewinesociety.com
Intipalka Chardonnay Vinas Queirolo 2022 A revelation of a chardonnay with similar tropical fruit character and zingy acidity to a New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Would be great paired with ceviche and other Peruvian dishes. £12.80.
corneyandbarrow.com
Pizzato Concentus Gran Reserva 2020 A sumptuous, supple blend of merlot, tannat and cabernet sauvignon from one of Brazil’s most talented winemakers, Fabio Pizzato. Proof that the country is capable of producing serious reds. Double decant and drink with a good steak. £28.99.
gobrazilwines.com
IMAGES: PIZZATO VINHAS E VINHOS; THE WINE SOCIETY; BIRDHOUSE FOTOGRAFIA
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