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IMAGES: ULF SVANE; WITCHUPOL CHAROENSUPAYA


NAPOL ‘JOE’ JANTRAGET Nawa Thai Cuisine Understated yet elegant, with an open kitchen at its heart, Nawa Thai Cuisine is all about off ering an inclusive, less


DYLAN EITHARONG Haawm “Chefs take Thai food too seriously,” says Dylan Eitharong. “Thai food isn’t a mythical old


man in the mountains who can only be accessed through meditation.” Born in Florida to a Thai father and a US mother, Eitharong came to Bangkok just before the pandemic to open Haawm, the supper club he runs from his home. With cooking for the public temporarily not an option, he used the time to deepen his Thai food knowledge. One conclusion he reached: “Thai fi ne


dining is a fad”. Despite that, Eitharong’s dishes — made traditionally but with a hint of cheeky ‘your grandma would never’ energy — are decidedly elegant. They include a ‘dry’ tom kha gai (coconut and galangal soup) with chicken braised


in young galangal juice; and gaeng tai pla (Southern Thai-style fermented fi sh innards curry) enriched with roasted coconut and a dash of coconut cream. Having grown up with Thai-American


food in the US, “at some point I realised there was more to Thai food than that”, Eitharong says. Initially inspired by recipes from 1970s and ’80s Thai women’s magazines, he’s now fi nding his own style. He’s not chasing awards or stars, but his cooking has won Haawm a loyal following. And with just 20 covers, spread across part of his home (he still lives upstairs), this spot has become one of the city’s hottest tickets. instagram.com/haawmbkk STREET-FOOD TIP: “Khao Tom Jay Suay is my number-one, especially late night. Always order stir-fried pork and Chinese olives, smoked duck breast (add fried garlic), Chinese sausage salad and khao tom (rice porridge) on the side.” 547 Thanon Phlap Phla Chai


formal vision of fi ne dining, where “no matter how elevated, we can welcome mom and dad, auntie and uncle”, according to chef Napol ‘Joe’ Jantraget. Having opened the popular — and more casual — restaurant Samlor in 2021, Jantraget decided to return to fi ne dining, having previously worked at Bangkok’s Michelin-starred 80/20. “I felt my job, in terms of Thai food, is not done yet,” he says. Last year, Jantraget opened Nawa, which he runs alongside his pastry chef wife Saki Hoshino, and which has already earned a star from Michelin and picked up its Opening of the Year award. The innovative menu features Central Thai


dishes such as Hua Hin caviar, Surat Thani crab and organic pork from Nakhon Pathom. It isn’t afraid to tweak the classics, as evidenced in dishes like ma hor — traditionally, sweet-and-salty pork paste on an acidic slab of pineapple or orange, here served with diff erent fruit depending on the season. “What makes ma hor is the paste. That’s something we’d never touch,” says Jantraget. instagram.com/nawa.thaicuisine STREET-FOOD TIP: “Jay Fat is an aharn tham sung (made-to-order) stall where they make great deep-fried chicken with lots of MSG. It’s so wrong but so right.” Charoen Krung Soi 28


From left: Tuk tuk in Yaowarat Road, Chinatown; stacks of bowls, Sai Nam Phueng; Thai-style shrimp fritters, chilli paste river prawn and pork with kapi glaze, Nawa; peeling papayas at Jay Fat


NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL 53


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