THAILAND
NORTH ON THE TRAIL
From tomato rice in Phrae to khao soi in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand is ripe for a slow-paced culinary journey. Words & photographs: Austin Bush
Until the end of the 19th century, much of what is today considered northern Thailand was an independent kingdom. Lanna (‘Million Rice Fields’) had its own distinct culture, language and cuisine. And the latter certainly remains true today. Northern Thai food leans towards savoury, tart and bitter fl avours. Soups and grilled dishes are common, and infl uences stem from the various ethnic groups that inhabit the mountains of the region, as well as from neighbouring Myanmar and Chinese Muslims who passed by on trade routes. The region remained largely remote and
autonomous until 1916, when the fi rst leg of the northern train line from Bangkok was completed. This terminated in the city of Lampang; it would reach Chiang Mai, the north’s largest city, less than a decade later. There are quicker ways of travelling, but the train is a fascinating way to explore, linking big-hitter destinations and smaller provincial capitals, allowing you to slow down and take notice of the region’s unique cuisine.
Days 1-3: Chiang Mai & Lampang Take the sleeper from Bangkok and wake up in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand’s de facto cultural capital, a walled city home to more than 100 Buddhist temples. On a Friday morning don’t miss Ban Haw Market in the city’s Muslim quarter, which unites the produce and dishes of the area’s minority groups — the so-called ‘hill tribes’, Chinese, Burmese and Shan, as well as Muslims. The Muslim quarter is also home to the city’s most famous dish: khao soi (two types of noodles in curry broth). A mild version is sold by halal vendors at the edge of the market, such as Khao Soi Islam and Khao Soi Fuang Fah. If you’re craving khao soi on any other day of the week, tack on a trip to the riverside Fa Ham area, where Buddhist vendors Khao Soi Samerjai and Khao Soi Lam Duan Fa Ham have been slinging fl avoursome bowls for decades. In the afternoon, hail one of Chiang Mai’s
emblematic red taxi trucks — to get to Doi Suthep, the mountain towering over the city. The climb to the top culminates in views from Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, a gilded, hilltop Buddhist temple complex. Finish back in town
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with a late dinner at Midnight Fried Chicken, which dishes up poultry with distinctly northern Thai sides: sticky rice and two types of nam phrik (spicy dipping sauces). Spend your second day in Chiang Mai’s
walled city, starting with coff ee from Thai- grown beans at chic Akha Ama Phrasingh. Wat Phra Singh, arguably Chiang Mai’s most important Buddhist temple, is only steps away; don’t miss the early 19th-century Buddhist murals in Viharn Lai Kham, a chapel in the same compound. Outside the city walls you’ll fi nd Tong Tem Toh, serving a hip take on local cuisine — order the northern-style spice hors d’oeuvre, small bites of grilled herbal sausage, pork, vegetables and nam phrik. From here, go just south to Wat Suan Dok,
a Buddhist temple where you can take part in ‘monk chat’, an informal language exchange with novice monks, off ering a fascinating insight into Thai culture and Buddhism. Then, for a laid-back dinner try Chang Phuak Gate Night Market — Cowboy Hat Lady’s braised pork hock on rice is well worth queueing for. Spend a fi nal morning wandering Pratu
Chiang Mai Market by the old south gate, including the outdoor section, where vendors sell produce in front of crumbling temple ruins. At lunchtime, stop off at Huen Jai Yong, outside the city proper. Located in and around a temple-like teak and stucco structure, ringed by rice fi elds, it serves northern Thai-style dips, soups and other homely dishes. Wind down before your evening journey
with a massage at the Northern School for the Blind or the Women’s Massage Center, where proceeds go to good causes. After that, hop on a train to Lampang. Relatively few visitors make it here, but this riverside former logging outpost is quite charming — particularly Thanon Talat Gao, a road parallel to the Wang River, lined with a combination of northern Thai, Burmese and Chinese architectural styles. If you’re in town on a Saturday evening, hit the Walking Street Market for a casual dinner. Alternatively, head to Aroy One Baht, a rambling old house serving Chinese- infl uenced dishes such as aubergine fl ash- fried with fermented soybeans, or a spicy salad revolving around salted eggs.
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