CORSICA


The Citadel of Corte


F INE LY SL I C E D COR S I CAN CHARCU T E RI E


Charcuterie is one of Corsica’s most important products. Historically, the island’s cured meats and sausages have been crucial to the survival of its mountain-dwelling population throughout the harsh winter months. Today, visitors will still find charcuterie hanging in Corsican food shops, with the sweet, nutty lonzu and finely marbled coppa usually giving out a misleading funky aroma. Fortunately, they taste better than they smell. Across the island, many artisan producers


still adhere to traditional methods, creating different types of cured meats and sausages designed to be eaten at certain times of the year. Among them is Dumè Cesari, whose workshop in the village of Cozzano is part of the island’s Route des Sens Authentiques (Route of Authentic Senses) discovery trail. Dumè’s 500 black nustrale pigs forage in


the chestnut and beech forests during the summer. He then makes charcuterie in winter, with pigs that are 18 months old. “It’s made in winter because in the old days, they didn’t


have refrigeration — so it had to be made in the coldest months of the year.” Despite Corsica’s rich charcuterie heritage,


the annual influx of more than three million visitors means local supply can’t meet demand. Those seeking superior examples should search for charcuterie made from the island’s nustrale pigs, rather than imported meat. “You can tell from the flavour when it’s the real thing,” says Dumè. “The way we raise the pigs here is unique, what they eat is completely natural, and that’s transmitted into the taste.” As we stand in his curing cellar, he invites


me to try the different types: figatellu is eaten in the winter as it’s the first kind to be made — with liver and blood, as well as some cuts of lean meat with spices, all smoked over beech wood. Next, he cuts a fine sliver of the highly prized prisuttu, a deep-red ham that’s flavoured with paprika and other spices. Finally, Dumè gives me a slice of vuletta — almost entirely white fat but with a stripe of red — and suggests I leave a few seconds before chewing. The velvety-soft, nutty ham melts in my mouth, like butter. charcuteriecorsedusud.fr


ESSENTIALS


GETTING THERE EasyJet flies non-stop from Gatwick to Bastia in northern Corsica, while British Airways flies non- stop from Heathrow to Figari in the south of the island from May to October.


HOW TO DO IT Original Travel offers a 13-day tour of Corsica from the north to the south of the island, taking in both Corte and the capital Ajaccio, from £3,125 per person. Price includes flights, car hire and excursions, including a visit to a Corsican farm to sample local produce. originaltravel.co.uk


MORE INFO visit-corsica.com gustidicorsica.com


LOCAL FAVOURITES -


Cédrat This citrus fruit has a sweet, edible peel, but little juice or flesh, and is used in many products and dishes. Visit the cédrat grove belonging to Xavier Calizi at Barrettali on the Cap Corse peninsula and try his cédrat liqueurs, beer and jams. lescedratsducapcorse.com


Rock lobster Despite its size, the tiny coastal village of Centuri on the Cap Corse is the island’s lobster and rock lobster fishing capital — although only a few fishing families remain today, compared to around 20 half a century ago. Try rock lobster at one of the harbourside restaurants, such as U Cavallu di Mare.


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IMAGES: GETTY; ALAMY


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