WORDS: JOEL PORTER. IMAGE: MATYAS PAUL


STARTERS


T RY IT NOW


Loaded hash browns


THE CRISP POTATO SNACKS HAVE HAD A MAKEOVER AND NOW COME TOPPED WITH EVERYTHING FROM CRISPY ONIONS TO CAVIAR


As part of the wider trend for nostalgic comfort foods, hash browns are popping up on restaurant menus with increasing frequency. But don’t expect the golden brown triangles you might find in the freezer section or as part of a fried breakfast — chefs in London are giving them a serious upgrade. Seafood is the order of the day for some. Jackson Boxer


serves a rectangular hash brown topped with whipped cod’s roe and the condiment kosho at his recently opened eponymous Selfridges restaurant, new Mayfair opening The Dover offers a crispy potato cake topped with caviar, and Dorian in Notting Hill embellishes crisp fried potato with crabmeat. Meanwhile, last November, Hash Hut — whose


founder James Sharp appeared on MasterChef: The Professionals last year — launched at KERB Seven Dials Market in Covent Garden. The menu offers hash browns in three different shapes, plus a whole host of toppings, ranging from sriracha mayo and parmesan to crispy onions and nori flakes. The hash brown has been reborn.


NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL 13


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