STARTERS
On the menu
FROM GRILLED SATAY SKEWERS TO A RICH ROGAN JOSH, HERE’S OUR PICK OF THE FINEST LAMB DISHES ON MENUS WORLDWIDE
CEVAPI Rose Mary, Chicago There are many regional variations of cevapi, a grilled minced meat dish popular across the Balkans. At Croatian-inspired Rose Mary, in Chicago’s historic Fulton Market district, the mixed lamb and beef version is served with sweet and spicy ajvar (a smoky roasted red pepper and aubergine dip), tangy kaymak (a dairy product similar to clotted cream) and red onion, all sandwiched into a soft, fluffy flatbread. $20 (£16).
rosemarychicago.com
SCHÖPSERNES Gasthof Hotel Andlwirt, St Andrä im Lungau Traditional to Austria’s Lungau region, schöpsernes is a harvest festival dish that uses meat from the first lambs brought down from their summer’s grazing. At Gasthof Hotel Andlwirt, a generous platter of roasted lamb cuts, aromatic with rosemary and garlic, is served alongside white cabbage salad, potatoes and cranberry. Available from mid-September to 1 November. €24 (£20.50).
andlwirt.at
SLOW-ROAST LEG OF LAMB The Cotley Inn, Somerset At this rural pub, head chef Dan Brown endeavours to source all ingredients locally. The lamb for his Sunday roast is reared in a field opposite the pub and the vegetables — honey-glazed beetroot, spring greens, courgette puree and roast potatoes — are supplied, where possible, from within a 25-mile radius. There’s Yorkshire pudding and proper gravy, too. £18.
cotleyinnwambrook.co.uk
PIT-ROASTED LAMB El Hidalguense, Mexico City Barbacoa, a traditional method of pit-roasting meat, is a speciality of the Mexican state of Hidalgo. At lively El Hidalguense, lamb is rubbed with salt, wrapped in agave leaves and cooked overnight, over oak, in an underground pit. It’s served with tortillas, salsa, onions, coriander and avocado. Fridays to Sundays only. From MXN790 (£36) per kilo.
instagram.com/elhidalguense_restaurante
The Cotley Inn Below: The exterior of Rose Mary
MUTTON PLATES Old Hickory Bar-B-Que, Kentucky At sixth-generation-family-run Old Hickory Bar-B-Que, rich meat is slow-cooked on a hickory-smoked barbecue and regularly basted with a mix of water, vinegar, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper. It’s enjoyed in a local stew known as burgoo or served with bread and sauce: choose from chopped mutton, mutton loin or mutton ribs, served with pickles, onions and sides including cornbread and green beans. From $13.25 (£10.50).
oldhickorybar-b-q.com
NALLI ROGANJOSH Pickle, Dublin At the much-loved Pickle, on Dublin’s buzzy Camden Street, multi- award-winning Madhya Pradesh-born chef Sunil Ghai combines high- quality Irish produce with Northern Indian flavours and techniques. His signature rogan josh is rich, complex and made with certified- halal lamb shank. Flavoured with saffron and fennel, the meat is cooked low and slow for 12 hours with caramelised onions, ginger and tomatoes. €28.50 (£24.50).
picklerestaurant.com
SATE KAMBING TeSatE, Jakarta Indonesian sate (satay) dishes vary by region — in Java, ‘sate kambing’ refers to mutton, lamb or goat meat marinated in sweet soy sauce, skewered and grilled until caramelised before being served with peanut sauce. At each of TeSaTe’s three restaurants in Jakarta, satay-seeking diners can choose between skewered meat pieces (sate kambing muda), minced meat (sate kambing muda buntel) or a combination of the two. IDR 158,000 (£8).
tesate.sarirasa.co.id
HAND-PULLED BELT NOODLES WITH CUMIN LAMB Xi’an Biang Biang Noodles, London The cuisine of China’s northwestern Shaanxi province is known for its complex flavours; for its lamb and mutton dishes; and for its hand- pulled noodles. At no-frills canteen-style Xi’an Biang Biang Noodles, in London’s Spitalfields, all three come together in one hugely popular, generously proportioned dish, which combines tender pieces of cumin-spiced lamb and chewy biang biang noodles (also known as belt noodles due to their impressive width). A satisfying meal that’s as invigorating as it is comforting. £13.80.
xianbiangbiangnoodles.com
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NATIONALGEOGRAPHIC.COM/TRAVEL
IMAGES: GEORGINA PRESTON; MATT HAAS
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