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COOKING COMPANION


GRIDDLED LAMB CHOPS WITH DEVILLED KIDNEYS


A great introduction to eating offal - with ripe grilled tomatoes and served alongside a fresh green salad, this is certainly a recipe to try this summer.


8 lamb’s kidneys 20g butter, melted Quarter tsp cayenne pepper 1 tsp English mustard Half tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tsp lemon juice 1 tbsp olive oil 8 loin lamb chops 1 tbsp chopped parsley Salt and freshly ground black pepper


serves 4


It’s not as offal as it sounds


Offal remains one of the most overlooked areas of a butcher's counter and is almost non-existent on our supermarket shelves. We spoke to executive chef and offal advocate, Paul Collins, about people's continued apprehension of


eating and cooking these unconventional 'cuts', as well as how we appreciate the whole animal, in an attempt to reduce food waste.


FOR THE GRILLED TOMATOES 6 vine-ripened tomatoes, halved 2 tsp chopped thyme 15g finely chopped pitted black olives 1 small garlic clove, chopped 20g butter


1 Preheat the grill to high. Put the tomato halves side by side in a shallow ovenproof dish and sprinkle over the thyme, olives, garlic and some seasoning. Dot each one with a little of the butter.


2 Cut the lamb’s kidneys in half and snip out the cores with scissors. Toss with some seasoning. Mix the melted butter with the cayenne, mustard, Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice. Heat a large, ridged cast iron griddle over a high heat until smoking hot, then lower the heat to medium-high.


3 Put the tomatoes under the grill and cook for 8 mins until tender. Meanwhile, brush the chops on both sides with a little oil and season well. Put them onto the griddle and cook for about 4 mins on each side, until nicely browned on the outside but still pink and juicy in the centre. Stand them on their fatty edges and cook for 1 minute more. Lift onto a plate, cover with foil and leave to rest for 2-3 mins.


4 When the chops are nearly cooked, heat 1 tsp oil in a frying pan, add the kidneys and cook over a high heat for 4 mins, turning them over halfway through, until firm and lightly browned on the outside but still slightly pink in the centre. Add the butter mixture and chopped parsley and toss together well over the heat for 30 secs, but no longer. Serve with the chops and grilled tomatoes.


The Great British Farmhouse Cookbook by Sarah Mayor, published by Quadrille Publishing


childhood. If we make brawn or force-feed tongue, it is only going to cement people's dislike for offal. It's these pieces of the animal that we associate to having an overpowering flavour or unpleasant texture and it is those past perceptions we need to overcome. I have a strong belief that we have to


F


balance the carcass and therefore, with a minimal waste ethos at Yeo Valley, it is our job as chefs to incorporate these ingredients into the menu in such a way that is accessible and ultimately enjoyable. I can appreciate that some people


can't stomach a liver in its entirety, but it's about being adaptable and using them for their delicious meaty flavour in other ways. Paired with a little lean meat and other pieces of well-cooked offal, we can easily arrive at a dish that more people are happy to try.


WHERE DO WE START?


We start by changing people's perception. If they've seen a pair of lungs or heart hung up in the butchers that traditionally gets thrown in a large pot and it's boiled up – this imparts no beneficial flavours and offers nothing more than a gelatinous texture. It is not surprising then that people think they don’t like offal. However, these ingredients can be pan-fried and paired with fresh herbs or cooked in a flavoursome stock and the end result is very pleasant.


Oxtail and beef cheeks are a great introduction to eating alternative cuts.


58 | THE WEST COUNTRY FOODLOVER


or many, a negative perception of offal comes from


Like shin, these pieces are so succulent when slowly braised. Starting with less obscure offal helps us to begin the transition to considering alternatives when visiting the butcher.


We are in a fortunate position here at Yeo Valley HQ that when we receive an animal back to the kitchen, we get everything, including bones. We constantly make stock which is the bloodline to our kitchen. Allowed


to reduce, intensifying the flavour, we always cook with it, imparting more flavour and essential nutrients to all our dishes, including offal.


LIVENING UP LIVER


When someone says 'liver' you instantly think onion, bacon, sage and maybe thyme. Such a dish with hearty, iron- like flavours shouldn’t be masked with overpowering flavour but rather enhanced and complemented using seasonal ingredients.


Slow-cooked onions, softened and caramelised as well as sweet carrots and woody herbs such as thyme, are great flavour pairings, along with a rich stock. Mashed potato is always the perfect side, resulting in a hearty, comforting dish. A real treat with plenty of milk and butter, it's rich and indulgent, lending itself perfectly to this kind of food.


A great trick to introducing offal to your family meals is incorporating it into sauces and ragouts. Start running a bit of liver through a rich minced beef sauce for Bolognese or lasagne. Introduce the family to the idea of haggis and black pudding and don’t be afraid to discuss what is in them. Before long, they will have the confidence to try offal in its entirety.


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