FOOD & DRINK Food & Drink LOCAL PRODUCE • RECIPES • EVENTS by Holly and David Jones Cosmo Caddy - Dappa
Now and then in the foodie world, something new comes along that makes us look at a traditional product in a fresh new way. That’s happening right now in the South Hams with the arrival of Dappa, south Devon’s own grappa- style spirit, the digestivo beloved of the Italians. We met up with local boy Cosmo Caddy who’s reinventing this classic.
Africa I took the opportunity to move to California and worked again in TV and film and also some charity events out there. Eventually the pull of Devon was too strong and I returned home. So not a natural progression!
Cosmo, would you tell us a bit about your background - I know you have connections to Sharpham but have also been away in California. My grandfather, Maurice, started the Sharpham vineyard, farm and creamery; the vines were planted around the time I was born and I was helping to pick grapes from the age of 3 or 4. I’ve always loved being down in Devon, and particularly at Sharpham (I grew up in London until the age of 12 when my mum moved back to just outside Totnes). Being around the process of wine-making most of my life, I loved the community of food and drink producers in Devon, meeting them at shows such as the Devon County Show or Dartmouth Regatta each year.
What did you do before entering the world of distilling?
I studied broadcasting at university and worked in television and film for a number of years before joining the Nelson Mandela Foundation to look after the broadcasting of their fundraising concerts around the world. When they decided to relocate their event operation back to South
Can you explain what grappa is and why you have to call yours Dappa Grappa is made from grape skins after they have been used to make wine – the crushed skins are known as ‘pomace’. The Italians say the best grappa is made from the red skins used to make red wine as they have been carefully fermented by the skilled wine-makers before the skins are pressed. Grappa from white skins or red skins that have not gone through fermentation (sparkling/rose etc) have to be then fermented by the distillery without adding water or any liquid – one of the stipulations to be called grappa - and this tends not to have the more subtle flavours that are possible from the red skins. The pomace is then steamed to release the alcohol that is present from the fermentation. The skill and artfulness of the distiller then comes into play, to remove the water part of the steam and only collect the best part of the alcohol that has been released. Grappa is a Product of Designated Origin (PDO). Much like champagne, it can only come from Italy and must be made in a specific way. Whilst Dappa is made in exactly the same way as grappa, even using a custom made copper from Italy, it still can’t be called grappa. As there isn’t anyone else in the UK making anything like grappa there was no defined name for it yet. Being made in Devon it seemed almost logical that it should be called Dappa. And once the name was passed by DEFRA, Trading Standards, HMRC and Brussels I thought we ought to stick with it!
What made you come up with the idea of producing Dappa here in Devon as it’s a new product to this area?
Dappa isn’t just new to the area, it’s new to the whole of the UK. I’ve loved grappa for many years and knew it was made from grape skins. I was pretty sure I would be able to convince Sharpham at least to give me their skins so I could get started. The only ingredients in Dappa are the alcohol that has been
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