BY GINNY WARE POSTCARD from Leonie
AFTER LIVING ABOARD ON THE RIVER DART FOR EIGHT YEARS GINNY WARE AND HER HUSBAND CARL SET SAIL FOR FRANCE AND BEYOND. HERE’S AN UPDATE ON HOW THEY ARE GETTING ON
between Italy and Corsica, melted into the horizon behind us as Leonie slid gracefully through a long smooth swell in a sea coated with pint glass dimples. We managed to negotiate 10 Eu- ros off the asking fee of 60 Euros for a two night stay at Giglio, necessary to shelter from a raging storm outside the harbour walls, but the price was still extortion- ate for a choppy mooring that made me feel seasick. There were no toilets or showers, only undrinkable water and electricity that cut out every time we boiled the kettle. As we are making this trip on a
G
tight budget we were on a mission to navigate the Italian waters and its mostly expensive marinas as quickly as possible in order to reach the Greek islands in the Ionian Sea. To this end we were making long passages from port to port, or
Corricella, Isola di Procida
IGLIO, one of the Tuscan group of islands that dot the sea
anchorages where available and if the weather was kind. The 11 hour voyage from Giglio to Riva di Traiano Marina on the mainland was tough. Our auto-helm stopped working and it rained. We had to sidestep four huge
cruise liners entering and leaving the big industrial docks at Civitavecchia,
Although we had planned a 50nm passage to Capo di Anzio the next day, as the weather was calm we changed our minds in the afternoon and decided to make a night-run to Gaeta.
Soon after nightfall we had a visit
from an Anzio Port Police Officer who came up very close to Leonie in his fast RIB wanting to know where we had come from and where we were going. It was all very friendly and he waved goodbye as he sped off again.
When I came up later Gaeta old town
eventually arriving at our destination at 9pm where a friendly and helpful man in a dinghy helped us tie up and we enjoyed hot showers. Our sense of wellbeing was shattered the next morning though when the marina boss demanded 45 Euros (in out of season April). An expensive shower and kip.
to take over from Carl at the helm, I was alarmed to see the massive head-
land of Cap Circeo looking so sinister and so close. The land on either side of it is flat which made the cliff seem immense. As we rounded the tower- ing rock face the moon came into view bestowing the shadowy night sky with a warming glow. Gaeta was a great little harbour full of friendly fellow sailors. We met
Lyon, Pyrenees and Mont Blanc 113
Passage from Gaeta to Isola di Procida
Refuelling at Gaeta
Ginny and Carl on Monte Solaro, Capri
Page 1 |
Page 2 |
Page 3 |
Page 4 |
Page 5 |
Page 6 |
Page 7 |
Page 8 |
Page 9 |
Page 10 |
Page 11 |
Page 12 |
Page 13 |
Page 14 |
Page 15 |
Page 16 |
Page 17 |
Page 18 |
Page 19 |
Page 20 |
Page 21 |
Page 22 |
Page 23 |
Page 24 |
Page 25 |
Page 26 |
Page 27 |
Page 28 |
Page 29 |
Page 30 |
Page 31 |
Page 32 |
Page 33 |
Page 34 |
Page 35 |
Page 36 |
Page 37 |
Page 38 |
Page 39 |
Page 40 |
Page 41 |
Page 42 |
Page 43 |
Page 44 |
Page 45 |
Page 46 |
Page 47 |
Page 48 |
Page 49 |
Page 50 |
Page 51 |
Page 52 |
Page 53 |
Page 54 |
Page 55 |
Page 56 |
Page 57 |
Page 58 |
Page 59 |
Page 60 |
Page 61 |
Page 62 |
Page 63 |
Page 64 |
Page 65 |
Page 66 |
Page 67 |
Page 68 |
Page 69 |
Page 70 |
Page 71 |
Page 72 |
Page 73 |
Page 74 |
Page 75 |
Page 76 |
Page 77 |
Page 78 |
Page 79 |
Page 80 |
Page 81 |
Page 82 |
Page 83 |
Page 84 |
Page 85 |
Page 86 |
Page 87 |
Page 88 |
Page 89 |
Page 90 |
Page 91 |
Page 92 |
Page 93 |
Page 94 |
Page 95 |
Page 96 |
Page 97 |
Page 98 |
Page 99 |
Page 100 |
Page 101 |
Page 102 |
Page 103 |
Page 104 |
Page 105 |
Page 106 |
Page 107 |
Page 108 |
Page 109 |
Page 110 |
Page 111 |
Page 112 |
Page 113 |
Page 114 |
Page 115 |
Page 116 |
Page 117 |
Page 118 |
Page 119 |
Page 120 |
Page 121 |
Page 122 |
Page 123 |
Page 124 |
Page 125 |
Page 126 |
Page 127 |
Page 128 |
Page 129 |
Page 130 |
Page 131 |
Page 132 |
Page 133 |
Page 134 |
Page 135 |
Page 136 |
Page 137 |
Page 138 |
Page 139 |
Page 140 |
Page 141 |
Page 142 |
Page 143 |
Page 144 |
Page 145 |
Page 146 |
Page 147 |
Page 148 |
Page 149 |
Page 150 |
Page 151 |
Page 152 |
Page 153 |
Page 154 |
Page 155 |
Page 156 |
Page 157 |
Page 158 |
Page 159 |
Page 160 |
Page 161 |
Page 162 |
Page 163 |
Page 164