The next day,we stop at the acclaimed Tennessee State Museum. It’s sometimes called“The Smithsonian of Tennessee” due to its size and scope. It is here where I meet the aforementioned musician SteveWarwiner who also happens to be an incredible artist.His works are on dis- play during my
visit.The man can create songs and beautifully visual work of art. Very impressive! (
www.mmuseum.org)
The travel writers are soon treated to lunch in one of the museum’s comfort- able meeting rooms. It’s catered by Riff’s Fine Street Food - the noted food truck operators who are considered to be the top-rated four-wheeled food purveyor in the
city.Before moving on, I grab another one of their scrumptious peanut butter and banana cupcakes (for extra energy, I kid myself).
Retailers lure me, including the ones over at Opry Mills (Nashville’s fashion outlet featuring over 200 stores),and there’s also some shopping to be done in charming HillsboroVillage,home to Vanderbilt University,and several blocks worth of hip stores,coffee houses and cafes. I note with amazement how there’s a long line of hungry patrons who happi- ly wait their turn at entering Hillsboro’s Pancake Pantry - at 10am on a Thursday morning,no less.
Our van soon arrives at Leiper’s Fork,a clandestine gem that’s just outside of Nashville’s city
line.Known for its quaint galleries,and its in-demand real estate (reported sightings of Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel run rampant,and I keep hearing from shop owners,“Oh,you just missed them!”).
In the heart of this lively neighborhood (where the scent of sweet wood smoke seems pervasive),owner Rob Robinson - guitar in hand - holds court over his charming grocery store/restaurant, Puckett’s. By day,one might expect Gomer Pyle to saunter in for some good BBQ and an iced
tea.At night, the lights go down and the locals (and Rob) tight- en their strings and play-Play-PLAY.
After a night of eating and listening to the jam-fest at Puckett’s, I wearily check in at round two - Drury Place Hotel,
66 January February 2014
which is in the emerging neighborhood of Franklin.
“What better way to begin the day than with a tour of the Jack Daniel’s Distillery?”I tell myself.Here I learn all about“Gentleman Jack”- how he began producing his famous spirit in 1866; how Jack Daniel’s is not scotch and it’s not bourbon, rather, it is charcoal mellowed whiskey,and I get to see with my own eyes the very source of its crystal clear pure waters,which emanate from the sereneness of a nearby cave.
The old liquor stills are like old,black locomotive engines.Within their hearts the heady aromas of sour mash and yeast tickles my nose and taste buds.
“Yes,we do a lot of events here”confirms Jesse James (What? Is that name familiar or something?),who runs the onsite PR for the
distillery.Groups especially love the tasting room and the tall tower of Gentleman Jack bottles taking center stage within it.
With an atmosphere that’s as mellow as a sip of Jack, it’s good to be here with Lynchburg, Tennessee’s finest whiskey maker.
www.jackdaniels.com
If Nashville is steel,glass and cement sidewalks, then nearby Columbia is like a Hollywood movie set from the 1950s,as small town and friendly as it
gets.Lunch is at Puckett’s - same name as the one from last night; this one, though,has owner Andy Marshall at the helm.He feeds us tangy barbecue and some tasty fried catfish,mac-and-cheese,and a“Man Versus Food”-worthy concoction with hamburger,barbecued pork,bacon,cole slaw, fried green tomatoes and onions. I quickly learn why Puckett’s is a consis- tent accolade-getter by the food media.
After lunch,as we’re sitting back and enjoying Jason Matthews doing a soulful acoustic performance,a wild-haired, tall and skinny guy comes up to our table and asks some of the travel writers if we want to go next door to see his studio. Andy Marshall assures us that Rick Clark is not only harmless;we should indeed
take him up on his offer. (Rick produces soundtracks for films, including the one he created for the movie Up in the Air with George Clooney.)
Rick’s messy studio is an oasis for CDs, albums and all sorts of rock memorabil- ia. I want to hear this man’s stories for hours (including the one about his per- sonal history with the‘70s rock group, Big Star),but alas, it’s time to roll.
I should not have been so surprised to find that Tennessee has its share of well- known wineries,considering its sunny, southern kissed location and climates. One of its very best - a dramatic chateau on a terraced incline is the 75-acre ArringtonVineyards,which offers a lus- cious array of reds,whites and sparkling
wines.Co-owned by Kit Brooks (of Brooks & Dunn fame), the sprawling venue hosts a wine tasting room, tours, indoor and outdoor party spaces,and that scenic
view.My phone’s Google Map page might be telling me I’m in Tennessee,but from here it looks like France.
The final lodging stop on this tour is the Franklin Marriott Cool Springs. It resides in a corporation-heavy office campus on the outskirts of Franklin,and like the other preceding hotel properties,plan- ners and vacationers alike will find everything they need within its spacious, well-appointed confines. Meeting rooms abound.
Though we don’t hit any high-end restau- rants on this trip (such as Nashville’s The Southern,and the top-rated Rolf & Daughters),we sure do get to the oldies- but-goodies.
Millers Grocery is pure Americana with its scratch-made,home-style cooking (the chicken with gravy and biscuits is a com- fort food revelation),as is Marcy Jo’s Mealhouse,where this roadhouse’s name- sake works on from the wee hours of the morning preparing that night’s one meal for her happy pork chop-chomping clien- tele. It’s here where Grammy-winning local favorite, Jason Matthews,makes his final reprise performance for us; a per- fectly melodious nightcap after a hearty, eventful day.
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