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until it’s syrupy but not jammy. Cut the batons into slices (less than 3cm) and glaze them rapidly in the syrup (15).


Devonshire Arms Rhubarb Triangle dessert Serves one. Quantities are approximate 30g white chocolate custard 20g rhubarb gel 6 pieces of glazed, poached rhubarb 1 rhubarb cannelloni sheet 20g frozen parfait 6 pieces rhubarb crisps 6 pieces white chocolate cookie 6 shards of white chocolate wafer Anise-scented micro-cress


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Adam Smith creates a horseshoe design of six miniature desserts on the plate. Each one contains two or three piped drop- lets of custard and two of rhubarb gel with a piece of glazed poached rhubarb between them. To make the cannelloni, cut out a rectangle from the sheet, measuring roughly 10cm x 5cm. Cut a piece of frozen parfait to sit neatly on it (16). Wrap the rhubarb cannelloni around it and trim the edges if necessary. To finish dressing the plate, lay the cannel- loni off-centre. On each pile of rhubarb and custard around the plate, add a rhubarb crisp, a piece of cookie, a shard of white chocolate wafer and a sprig of micro cress.


The Rhubarb Triangle


Forced rhubarb is grown in large sheds in the dark and it has been a Yorkshire speciality crop for more than 100 years. However, there isn’t a consensus about


exactly where the Rhubarb Triangle is. Is it between Bradford, Leeds and Wakefield, or between Morley, Rothwell and Wakefield? Nor is there a single variety of rhubarb. Most of the growers, about 11 in all, work with several kinds. Some are a dark scarlet, others a bright pink. The perennial plants are started outdoors,


but when they are two years old, the roots are divided and transplanted into the sheds. They grow rapidly at controlled temperatures. The stalks are the size of the maincrop fruit, but more tender and less acid. The Devonshire Arms buys its rhubarb


from Robert Tomlinson, Moss House Farm, Pudsey (0113 256 9027).


46 | The Caterer | 20 March 2015 www.thecaterer.com








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