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Manchester United fan Robert Hull is in heaven in Hotel Football, opposite the club’s Old Trafford stadium, but is unsure what supporters of other clubs will think Among the many positives are the genuinely friendly staff, a breakfast selection that’s cheery, robust and down to earth (the full breakfast is epic; my eggs Benedict was a per- fectly portioned mix of sweet and savoury) and a supremely comfortable bed with pillows


that don’t wilt overnight. That said, the colour scheme is corporate and bland, and the whiteness of the bathroom budget-flavoured. Still, the toi- letries, designed in sport drinks- style packages boasting the class of ’92’s squad numbers, should raise a chuckle. There’ll prob- ably be no complaint with Giggs’ No 11 representing body wash, but I’m not so sure about No 18 – Paul Scholes – as conditioner. And, in a way, those last two points sum up the Hotel Foot- ball conundrum. Who will your guests be really? United sup- porters or fans of football? Price: doubles from £95, £250 on match days (room only)


53% ENERGY SAVINGS


Set in Tillington, West Sussex, the 300-year-old Horse Guards Inn serves top-quality pub food with generosity and flair, says John Walsh The homemade bread was de- liciously crusty and soft. An- gie’s carpaccio of fennel and pear with aged Gouda was an inventive way of serving salad, a spa-restaurant starter given some butch notes with fennel crisp and pumpkin seeds. My salt halibut fritters were lovely, the fish-to-mash ratio just right, each fritter beautifully browned and crunchy, served with aioli and a flick of cayenne. All the beef comes from Ab- erdeen Angus cattle, grazed on herby pastures, then hung for 35 days. My four tranches


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of roasted organic rump were rare


and raw-liver red,


and


sublimely, meltingly rich and soft. The meat lay like a crim- son tarpaulin over a spectacular array of casserole ingredients: small roast potatoes, parsnips, kale, Jerusalem artichokes and (slightly too salty) salsify hash. Horseradish cream was bril- liantly balanced, a smear of onion marmalade less so. Let me say this loud and clear: the beef I’m regularly served at Sunday lunchtimes in west Lon- don gastropubs cannot hold a candle to what they serve here. Rating: food 4/5; ambience 3/5; service 3/5


20 March 2015 | The Caterer | 17 75 %


LESS HEAT POLLUTION IN THE AREA


Further information about the first pass-through warewasher with heat pump: www.winterhalter.biz


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