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advanced skin care


the oil paradox Karen Deehan considers how to treat excessively oily skins


Winter skin care advice tends to focus on howto stop skin drying out, but it’s important not to overlook clients at the other end of the scale.


Excessive sebumcan have a real impact on howclients feel about themselves; it affects howmake-up sits on the skin and it’s one of the main culprits behindAcne.Despite the distress it sometimes causes, oily skin is particularly stubborn to treat.However, by using the correct products you can help to restore the natural balance.


It seems counter intuitive to use oil-based products for this skin type, but this is because there’s a tendency to confuse themwith the secretions our skin produces naturally.Using oil-based skin care can actually have a very positive effect on oily skin.


Itmay be tempting to use harsh alkaline-based products in an effort to control oil, but this can often exacerbate the problem.When the skin is stripped of its natural secretions, the body sends the sebaceous glands into overdrivewhich means that evenmore is produced.This can lead to clogged pores and breakouts, in extreme cases it can even result in a fatty acid deficiencywhich can cause blackheads, dull skin tone and pigmentation. The skin’s immune systemmay also be impaired, leading to increased sensitivity.


Treating oily skin


 Avoid harsh products that strip the skin, these will exacerbate the problem.


 Remember that oil cuts through oil, so use oil-based cleansers.


 Look out for products that contain antioxidants such as vitaminsA, C and E.


 Exfoliate regularly with products containing beta-hydroxy acids.


 VitaminA is particularly effective at balancing and normalising skin, apply topically and take a supplement.


 Taking omega oil supplements is also beneficial as they contain ‘good’ oils.


oil-based products


For this reason, it’s important to choose oils that workwith the skin’s natural secretions, not against. Look for oil-based products formulated with vitaminsA, C and Ewhich normalise both the quality and quantity of the skin’s oil production rather than stripping it.These antioxidants also help to prevent congestion, reduce inflammation and promote healing.


VitaminAis particularly important because it helps to balancemoisture levels – in fact it is the singlemost important nutrient for healthy skin. For best results encourage clients to apply it topically and to take a supplement.


When natural oils in the skin become thick in consistency and are produced in excess, it can lead to imbalances such as congestion and lacklustre, greasy skin.Water is inefficient at removing oil because the two don’tmix, so incorporating an oil-based cleanser is the best option.Again, thismay seemlike the opposite ofwhat you should do, but it’s important to remember that oil cuts through oil, giving a very efficient cleansewithout stripping the skin.


beta-hyrdoxy acids


It’s also important to exfoliate by using beta- hyrdoxy acidswhich are kinder to skin than granular scrubs.They are better for oily skin than alpha-hydroxy acids because they’re fat soluble. “This is one of themost important steps in treating an oily skin,” says ClareMuir, Head ofTraining at the International Institute forAnti-Ageing (iiaa). “This skin type usually has a thickened stratumcorneumand pore lining.The best exfoliating ingredient for oily skin is SalicylicAcid as this is a beta-hydroxy acid, so itwill not only exfoliate the surface of the skin but also the pore liningwhere oil and dead cells can become blocked, leading to comedones and breakouts.”


When treating a clientwith oily skin, remember that it’s just as important to address the condition fromthe inside aswell as topically.


Skin is a reflection ofwhat’s going on internally, so by stocking supplements and recommending themto your clients you can maximise results. “I’d recommend taking at least 5,000 InternationalUnits (ius) of vitamin Ain supplement formevery day to help balance the skin,” says Lorraine Perretta,Head ofNutrition fromtheAdvancedNutrition Programme. “Oral supplementationwith an Omega 3 and 6 oil combinationwill also help to clear your clients’complexion.These provide essential fatty acids that help to reduce inflammation.They also provide the ‘good’oil needed to ‘waterproof’our cellmembranes, helping skin retain its naturalmoisture.”


natural pigments


When treating oily skin, it’s important not to overlookmake-up. Clientswith excess sebum should be using cosmetics that don’t clog pores or cause irritation. “Mineralmake-up is ideal because it allows skin to breathe and function normally,” saysDanielle Bookatz fromjane iredalemineral cosmetics. “Look for brands that contain natural pigments and are free from fillers, artificial dyes and fragrances because theywon’t cause breakouts ormake any inflammationworse.The other advantage of mineralmake-up is that it helps tomattify and won’t slide off oily skin.”


Although oily skin can be a challenge to treat, it’s clear that by taking certain steps you can balance your clients’ skin.Advising themto take targeted supplements, using gentle oil- based products and recommending high-quality mineralmake-upwill enable you to bring the condition under control andmake a real difference to howthey feel about themselves.


Karen Deehan works for the International


Institute for Anti-Ageing (iiaa), UK distributors of Environ skin care, Jane Iredale Mineral


Cosmetics and Advanced Nutrition Programme t: 0208 450 2020 w: www.iiaa.eu @iiaaLtd


134 GUILD NEWS


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