Insider’s Guide to Espace Killy
By Emma McClelland A
fter leaving university, and before becoming an Editorial Assistant, I was a ski instructor. I spent a season in Val d’Isere doing my instructor
training and exams with ICE/Mountain Masters. My family are fanatical skiers; I learnt from age 4 and my father and brother are usually to be found way off -piste above Tignes and Val d’Isere. So, between us, we know Espace Killy and beyond inside out. Given that many readers will probably be heading out there later this year or next, I thought I’d give you a genuine insider’s guide to Espace Killy for the serious skier. All the obvious warnings apply: this area kills several people most years. Make sure that you are properly equipped and take a suitably qualifi ed guide. But then, open your eyes to a whole new world and enjoy for the rest of your skiing life.
Top 5 Off -Piste Routes
Vallon de la Sache: A classic 3600 foot continuous descent (the equivalent of skiing down Ben Nevis!) through a beautiful valley just on the edge of the resort. Start at Aguille Percee with a short climb on to the dome. T e easier couloirs are at the far end. You absolutely must keep right at the ravine and join the black piste. It emerges in the lovely little village of Brevieres, a great lunch stop.
Tour de Charvet: T is is the most popular back-country route in Val d’Isere with good reason. From the top of the Grand Pre chair lift go straight on under the warning barrier (pausing only to photograph the warning sign!). Head south for a mile down into the valley, then follow the Charvet River for three miles down the gorge before emerging at the Manchet chairlift. Look out for the Chamois which forage high up on the cliff s. If you’ve still got the energy, do Cugnai next.
Cugnai: An awesome route with 3300 feet of vertical descent, starting at the top of the Cugnai chair by ducking under the warning barrier. It opens into a huge valley and takes you far from the resort. Keep left near the
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cliff s where the snow is less aff ected by sun and wind. From April 1st, the refuge hut half way down serves snack lunches and is one of the most beautiful places to eat in the Alps.
Grand Vallon: Above Le Fornet, take the Signal drag lift and go straight on under the inevitable warning barrier into an area as large as some ski resorts. Much of it is north facing so the snow stays good but it can be wind aff ected and it does sometimes avalanche. After a 3250 foot descent you emerge at the bottom of the cable car station where refreshment is available at Le Crozet.
Pays Desert: T is starts at what remains of the Pissaillas Glacier, from the top of the Montet T-bar. Traverse out right for about a mile before turning downhill to meander two miles to the start of the drag lift (check it’s running before you start!). T is is a popular fi rst off - piste trip for the adventurous family group but is no less spectacular for that, nor is it totally without risk: watch out for the cornices; and never venture into this lunar landscape in bad visibility.
Top 5 Restaurants
Le Clin D’Oeil, Tignes Le Lac: T is charming little restaurant almost goes un-noticed from the outside and is pretty small on the inside – it caters for only 24 covers. We don’t know why it isn’t better known or why it doesn’t have at least one Michelin star, but why complain – the prices are half of what they should be. T e locals all know about it and so it is fully booked most evenings. I suggest that you book even before you go out to the resort.
L’Ouillette, Solaise: On a nice sunny day, there can be few better places on the planet to eat out. It has a sheltered terrace and BBQ with spectacular views. T e homemade food is fantastic. Being beside the lake, it is called the ‘Yacht Club’ in summer, and the terrace is decked out as an Hawaiian beach. It takes willpower to go back out skiing.
L’Arolay, Le Fornet: A totally diff erent proposition, this rustic retreat nestles in the quaint old village of Le Fornet, just down the road from the cable car station, and is defi nitely the place to be on a cold, blustery day with poor visibility. You won’t want to come back out again. Savoyard specialities are a treat and the owner is a great wine enthusiast.
La Sachette, Les Brevieres: T e lovely old village of Le Brevieres is a wonderful lunchtime destination. T e fi rst few restaurants you encounter are overpriced, crowded and pretty average. Instead, cross the bridge, turn left 100 yards up the street to the church. La Sachette is a traditional mountain restaurant, about as charming as they come and with great food. Later in the season, try eating out on the terrace round the back – the views are dramatic.
L’Edelweiss, Le Fornet : You’ll fi nd this nestling on a plateau at the side of the Mangard piste. It’s an archetypal alpine stone-and-wood building with a pretty terrace. T ere are several Savoyard specialities on the menu. If the weather is good later in the season, eat outside. If the weather is poor, inside capacity is limited and you’ll need to book early in the day.
Top 5 Bars
La Folie Douce: Situated at the top of the La Daille gondola, this is one of the most famous après-ski institutions in the Alps. T e tea-time rave outside on the terrace and slopes has to be seen to be believed. Do it at least once whatever your age. Whilst it costs €6 for a small beer, some clients happily splash (literally) €1000 on champagne without a second thought.
Dick’s Tea Bar: T is is another Val d’Isere après- ski institution which you must visit. It appeals to all ages and really rocks every night. Expect hundreds of young people to be packed in here later but you can’t argue that it lacks atmosphere.
T e Morris Pub: Yet another great Val d’Isere Venue. T is is always a lively spot and popular with the Brits. It frequently has live music.
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