stiffeners
Standard
Stiffener should be applied only to the wrong side of felt, as this prevents surface marks and keeps the finish clean.
METHYL ALCOHOL Wood spirit, chemically known as methyl
alcohol, is produced through the destructive distillation of wood. It is separated from acetic acid and other by-products during the distillation process and then purified for industrial use. In millinery, methyl alcohol serves two key roles: it is the preferred
solvent for dissolving shellac in stiffening and proofing mixtures, and it is also used directly as a stiffening agent in its own right.
Commercial methyl alcohol stiffeners are available in different formulations depending on the material being treated – the most common types are general, straw, and felt. Felt stiffener can be used on straw if needed, but straw stiffener is considered too strong for felt and should be avoided.
All types can be diluted with thinner to achieve the desired strength. The volatility
of methyl alcohol ensures that it evaporates cleanly after application, leaving the
material stiffened without residue, and it can be recovered for repeated use.
Tip: Always test the diluted solution on a small sample of the material first, as the
strength and effect can vary depending on the formulation and fibre type.
SHELLAC
Shellac is a natural resin obtained from the secretion of the lac insect on tropical trees. Once collected, it is refined into seed-lac and further processed into ordinary shellac or button-lac. It is insoluble in water but
dissolves readily in alcohol and wood spirit, and can also be dissolved in alkalis such as borax, soda crystals, or ammonia. Of these, borax is the least damaging to wool fibres. In hat making, the most effective solvent for shellac is wood spirit (methylated spirit), which evaporates after application, leaving little residue and allowing for reuse. This makes it both economical and suitable for hats that require subsequent dyeing.
With straw, stiffener is usually applied onto the outside of the hat while it remains on the block, helping the material hold its shape.
© the hat magazine
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