REPORT
Existing forms Biliana Borissova
When milliner Biliana Borissova was commissioned to recreate a 1950s hat for the Disney+ series Cristóbal Balenciaga, she faced a familiar challenge: a tight deadline and no access to a hat block in the required shape. With time running out, she looked to her surroundings for inspiration and found an unlikely solution in her son’s Captain America toy shield (pictured). “It was a great relief for me,” Biliana recalls, “because I didn’t have a wooden hat block in that shape.” The shield’s domed, circular form echoed the silhouette she needed, providing a last-minute substitute that was both inventive and effective. Working with plastic, however, posed its own set of complications. Unlike traditional wooden blocks, plastic cannot withstand heat or accommodate pins. This meant Biliana had to rely entirely on the preparation of the felt to ensure it would mould cleanly to the form and hold its shape as it cooled. Reapplying steam was not an option – once the material was in place, it had to set correctly the first time.
Whether using plastic
forms, mixing bowls or other household objects for longer-term use, Biliana suggests a few practical adaptations. Adding cords or strips to the felt can help secure it during the drying process, acting as temporary anchors where pins cannot be used. The key lies in anticipating the limitations of the form and adjusting the blocking technique accordingly.
More information
www.instagram.com/bilianaborissova
Transforming into wood Hat Blocks Australia
Across the millinery industry, alternative shaping methods – from improvised forms to sculpted prototypes – are increasingly used to develop unique designs and explore new concepts. Once a shape has been tested for longevity and wearability, many milliners recommend translating it into wood through a professional block maker. Darryll Osborne of Hat Blocks Australia describes
the start of this process as deeply collaborative. “It begins with trying to get inside the milliner’s head when it comes to the shape they envision,” he explains. However, he is cautious about accepting commissions based solely on verbal descriptions.
Prototypes sent to Hat Blocks Australia 56 | the hat magazine #107
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